Archive for April, 2010

Explanations on Trees, Pt. 2: Economics

I wrote yesterday about the quality of the fruit trees available to the people in and around Naryn Oblast, the murky information, and the unfortunate issues with timing (available saplings vs. still cold ground). I also said that we were paying a premium for our trees, and today I’m going to explain a little bit about what’s going on there.

The saplings that I showed pictures of yesterday cost between one and two dollars a piece. The trees we are buying cost $3.50 a tree, but it’s more complicated than that, and while the difference is significant, so is the product.

The trees from yesterday came from a nearby nursery. They were dug out of the ground any time within the last two weeks, and transported as they looked there to Naryn city. The roots may or may not have already been allowed to dry.

In order for a person from Orto Nura to get their hands on these trees, they’d need to take a shared taxi to Naryn city ($1), spend their morning buying, lets say, 2 trees ($4) and then take another shared taxi back to Orto Nura ($1).  So far, we’re at six dollars total, three dollars per tree, not including the opportunity cost of spending their whole morning away from their fields in the Spring. They could of course improve the unit price by buying more than two trees, but that gets us to the issue of transportation.

When preparing to bring home their spindly, 6 foot saplings in the shared taxi back to Orto Nura, they’ve got some options. They could, A) push them into the back seat of the taxi, with the other passengers, B) fold them up in the trunk with whatever everyone else is carting home, or C) tie them to the roof. For the already fragile plant, none of these are particularly enticing options. Even if they can find another means of transportation, one which will cause a little less stress to the plant, they’ve still spent significant time and cash money on a very fragile commodity.

(In fact, “cash money” is important here, more than just for teenage parlance. These farmers spend a large part of their lives outside of the cash economy, and most of the cash they do have goes to gasoline for their tractors. Throwing “cash money” at  a risky venture is not the wisest decision.)

Then there is the risk. As the residents of Orto Nura have been quick to point out to me, their village is cold, and has gotten colder. They used to grow lots of wheat here, and I’ve seen the old wheat grinders sitting idle in barns. “The weather broke,” is the simplified explanation I get. Despite the income benefits and health benefits being so high coming from fruit trees, the risks are also high.

After the villager has spent one of his Spring mornings in town buying trees (remember the Kyrgyz axiom: Each Spring day lasts an entire year), he now brings them home to a hostile climate. Already fragile, in the absence of specialized tree growing knowledge, the cold winter is likely to kill these saplings before they ever produce fruit. This makes purchasing a fruit tree such a risky economic decision, people in this village believe that they simply won’t grow.

But that’s where the Trees for the Khirgeez project comes in. First off, with a climate not that different from northern Wisconsin, the professional tree growers have sworn up and down to me that fruit trees, especially apple and apricot, can grow in Orto Nura. We just need to change some of the initial conditions.

First off, we are bringing the saplings in from the Lake a little later in the season, when the ground has had more of a chance to warm up. Next, the cooperative on the Lake will be digging them up the day before they arrive in Orto Nura and then transporting them all the way there, in their own truck, filled with their own top soil: these roots won’t dry out. Next, when we distribute them, we will be teaching the people where best places to plant them are, and how to take care of them during this first, crucial season. The icing on the cake? Thanks to your contributions, we’ve reduced the time and cash input required by the villagers from a morning and three dollars a tree to just twenty five American cents. That’s a pittance, even out here.

So, folks, while the chances that every single tree we get to the people out here will take root is not absolute, we are dramatically changing the economic decisions involved with fruit trees in Orto Nura. But what I’ve explained to you all here, I also need to explain to the residents themselves. Expect some radio silence for at least tomorrow, folks, as I’m heading out to that village again, to go door to door, and explain why this will work, and why the people should, at least, give it a try.

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Explanations on Trees Pt. 1, Quality

So, in the Trees for the Khirgeez program, we’re paying a premium for our fruit trees. We’re doing this for a number of reasons, and mainly because quality product,  good information and organization out here are scarce commodities, and the NGO we’re working with boasts all of those qualities.

The state of the state out here is that most people don’t have fruit trees. Traditional wisdom has dictated that the climate is just unsuitable. However, I have personally seen homes with thriving trees: apricots, apples, and even cherries. So the question becomes, how come some people can do it, and others can’t?

First I spoke with my homestay family, “where do people normally get their trees?”

“They get them from the forestry department,” my host dad said, “but I just went their with my coworkers, their trees are no good. They’re all dry. You need to buy them earlier.”

This confused me. I had been planting with my host mom in the garden, but she held off our venture, “the ground is too cold,” she had said, “I can feel it.” My friend Rachel and I had gotten similarly rebuffed during our Earth Day subotnik in her village when we tried to plant flowers in front of her school. While people told me that you can plant saplings in Naryn’s cold Spring ground, I imagined this was one of the limiting factors in tree growth.

Next, I headed out to the local forestry service, where folks told me they sell trees. What I found was less than promising. There was a narrow building with nice murals but no one to greet us, and then a large lot with some rows of little trees. We poked around for a bit, wondering what was going on, until a security guard came to shoe us away.

“Who are you?” he shouted from across the lot, “don’t take pictures.”

I greeted him jovially, not wanted to raise suspicion. “My friend and I Peace Corps volunteers, we work helping the villages. We are working with trees right now, and people told us we could buy them here.”

“Here? We don’t sell anything here. Look around, what would we sell?” He made a good point.

“So where can we buy trees from?” we asked.

“There are nurseries, in the villages. Uchkun, Jangy Talap and Eki Naryn. You can go there,” He said.

“And they are selling them now? They aren’t too dry?” I asked, echoing concerns I had heard from Kyrgyz people.

“I don’t know! I don’t sell things, I am security,” and he pulled out his ID, “you can go there, and ask them.” Everything was conducted with a smile, but he was intent on showing us the door.

My host mother, conveniently is from Jangy Talap. So, while I was poking around in the garden that night, I asked her.

“We have a park there, but its not a nursery,” she said.

“Do they sell trees?” I asked.

“Well, they sell raspberry bushes. But they sell those at the Forestry Service in Naryn, too.”

“I was there today,” I said, “they said they don’t sell anything there.”

I had also heard that they were for sale in the bazaar, but that these were no good either.

“The roots aren’t supposed to dry out,” one of my coworkers told me, “but in the bazaar, maybe they were pulled from the ground two weeks ago. Who knows? But they won’t grow.” Needless to say, the gentleman I met who sold saplings in the bazaar disagreed with my coworker’s assessment.

This, folks, is the problem I encounter on a daily basis. Everybody tells me things, but they are never entirely accurate. No matter how much my language improves, there are always little mysteries. Whenever I try to get projects off the ground, whenever I try to start things myself, new information inevitably comes to light. I’m working with the wrong people, the prices are wrong, the season isn’t right.

And that’s why I got so excited with this current project. First of all, it was pioneered by foreigners. That’s a big deal, because it means that somehow, these people already waded through the same language and cultural barrier I live in. Next, I am working with the same person those foreigners are working with. That means he is familiar with us silly little devils. And finally, I’ve double checked all the details over and over. The prices haven’t changed, neither have the requirements. Just as the details were for the other foreigners, so are they proving for me. This folks, is going to happen.

Tune in tomorrow, and I’ll talk about why our price premium isn’t as significant as it seems.

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Earth Day with the Soviets

So, the events of April 8th, provide an interesting lens to view the last couple of weeks.

First of all, my place of work, the local UNDP office, is all closed up. They received a ‘do not work’ order from headquarters on the morning of April 8th, and haven’t gotten the green light since. That means, once again, I haven’t had much of an office.

My work of late has been mostly following these guys around, so them not working has meant me not following. Some of my other work involves connections I’ve made through UNDP, and without them, those connections have proven hard to maintain. But that, folks, hardly means ol’ Kyrgy Carl has just been sitting around idly.

Just as before, when things get tough, I get local, and there is little more local than the stump in my backyard. In fact, most of this past week has involved yard work.

First, it was cleaning up the stump mess. “I’m gonna separate out all these rocks, and then fill the hole with dirt,” I told my host dad, “then we can make the garden bigger!”

“Not so fast,” he said, “we’re gonna put a new room there.” This was the first I’d heard of this.

“What if I hadn’t taken out that stump?” I asked.

“Then I would have hired some boys to do it.” Turns out he had plans for this all along. “What you can do, though, is dig up all those currant bushes, and plant them over there.”

So I did that, and cleaned up the “over there.” I hauled big rocks from the ground, and then started scraping the paint off the old gate, to prepare it for making into the compost bin.

“No, no,” he said, “that old gate is gonna be the new shoe changing room. When we make this new room over here, we’re gonna tear down the old room over there. We’ll still need a mudroom, though.”

At first, this would seem frustrating. Despite being told one thing, plans changed around me as fast as I was working, but had allegedly been that was from the start. At the heart of it, though, I was now being told future plans. My host family is starting to see that I am capable, and is letting me in on things. This folks, is a big step.

Also, we celebrated Earth Day recently! In honor of Mother Gaia, I went out to the pleasant little hamlet of Orto Nura and talked about the 3 R’s to 40 tenth graders.

This time, unlike last time, I had an American to do it with (we performed a little play, in Kyrgyz, of course), and then after I talked, when the kids asked questions, I could actually understand them! After that, we headed out into the village, and did a trash collection subotnik all on our own.

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500 Trees for Kyrgyzstan

Buy a Tree

 
So, here’s the deal. I’ve got until May 5th to raise $1,750, and the sooner the better. Here’s the skinny:

There is a cooperative on Lake Issyk Kul. They grow fruit trees saplings. But they do more than just that. They also deliver them, and hold seminars in the villages where they deliver them, teaching people where the best places to plant them are, and the proper ways to maintain them. It’s a full service system, and entirely sustainable. Not to mention, the trees are just three and a half dollars a piece.

A little background: as most of you know, I work with the UNDP here in Naryn city. We do work with the Kyrgyzstan New Zealand Rural Trust. As most of you also know, information here, especially timely information, is hard to come by. I just learned that this KNZRT just funded a project like this, and in learning that, learned that I could do it myself.

But there are two catches. The first is that the last day to place an order with them is May 5th. Had I known earlier, I’d have written about it then, but as is life. Second, the minimum order is 500. You got it, 500 trees at three and a half dollars a pop makes $1,750 dollars. If we raise that, we get trees this year. If not, your money waits in a pool and next year we buy boatloads.

Project Particulars

This is the first time we are doing this, though we’ll plan on making it annual. This year, we are working in the village of Orto Nura, and our partner is an English teaching volunteer named Rachel. Her host dad, Kochkunbek, is a real go getter. When I shopped around among the village volunteers, after talking to her, went up and called me directly.

I told him how the project would work, and he agreed to it. Him, being a savvy farmer, insisted himself that the project must happen quickly, as the ground was quickly warming, and planting must happen soon. Furthermore, he has agreed to find the villagers in the most need. After our donation service takes it’s percent, a community contribution is required on the part of the villagers. We’ve asked for 10% of the price of each tree. On top of that, Mr. Kochkunbek has organized with the village government that we be allowed to use their space to distribute the trees, and conduct the training seminar, in fund raising lingo, these elements are called the “community contribution.” This ensures that the receivers of the goods are invested in the project, and it’s sustainability.

Summary

Fruit trees are a big deal out here. They bring much appreciated variety to the Kyrgyz diet, as well as much needed vitamins. Along with eating and selling the fruits as is, people also boil them down with sugar, and make them into sweet, bread-dipping jams. They’ll make jars and jars of this stuff, and bring them out, one by one, all winter long. The limiting factor out here isn’t time or space, or even money, so much as it is access. Folks need access to high quality merchandise, plus good information on how to maintain their purchases. This project takes care of all of those things.

Now, as for where you come in. Provided below is a nice little link to our project on the fancy little “Chip In” website. They will allow you to make a donation to this cause with the same ease that you could buy a new ChiaPet from Amazon or a Beanie Baby from eBay.

In our case, though, you are buying trees. I suggest buying at least 5 trees. That’s $17.50. I wish it were a nice even number, but what can you do?

What’s $17.50, anyway? Almost a rack of ice cold Pabst Blue Ribbon? Three DVDs from Blockbuster, due back in a week? One really good martini? Out here, it’s five saplings, delivered and instructed, to a very poor, very remote part of our little world.

For anyone interested in seeing the project proposal itself, in fancy, formal form, click here.

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Springtime is Work Time

As Kyrgyzstan is retreating from international headlines, so too are international headlines retreating from Naryn. While Roza Otunbayeva and her team fastidiously work to build a new government, the traffic cops here are once again writing speeding tickets. Life here, having returned to normal not two days after the revolution (dare I call it that), now seems as though nothing ever happened.

Spring is here, officially. While people have been wearing t-shirts and skirts in other parts of the country for weeks, I  wear a cardigan to work, but it feels like a dream. The bazaar these days is fully of seeds for all manner of vegetables, and our tap water is turning brown with muddy snowmelt. Spring time is also animals sheering time, and here in Naryn, this is big business.

Signs abound, and cars cruise the villages looking for cashmere, the soft winter undercoat of goats. They’ll buy it by the kilo (that’s 2.2 pounds) for around $25, then sell it to China.

“In China they’ll clean it,” one merchant told me, “and then make it into yarn and send it to England. In England, they’ll make it into coats and sweaters.”

“Do Kyrgyz people buy those?” I asked.

“No! They are so expensive!” he said.

“How come no one in Kyrgyzstan makes it into yarn?” I asked.

“Some do,” he said, “but not many. We just don’t have many machines. You should do it! It would be a very good business!” Similarly, sheep pelts, sold for leather and wool, go for around a dollar apiece.

Here’s a Kyrgyz proverb: Everyday in the Spring lasts for a year.

As I’ve said before, folks, the seasons here are very, very real.

Along with the copious amounts of farm work (to which, I imagine the proverb refers) there is also the Soviet tradition of subotnik. This is essentially forced volunteerism for students, somewhat akin to our community service required for high school graduation. Here, though, it appears to be organized through the schools. Classes all go out together and clean.

They clean all kinds of stuff. They sweep public parking lots, clearing dead grass from the parks, and gather it all for big, smoky bonfires. It lends the air around town a campfire smell. I imagine this is what fall is like in small American towns where folks still burn their leaves.

The spirit of subotnik has been so wonderful, it has started in me an urge to do some good manual labor. First off, I wanted to build a compost bin in my backyard. My host father looked at me funny, though. So, I figured, I needed to prove myself.

“What about that tree stump,” I asked, “can I dig it out?”

“Why?” was his response.

“It’s dead, right? It should come out.” I said simply, “we can make the yard bigger.”

I figured with this easy notch on my belt, he’d see that I was capable, and let me make the composter. What I had failed to understand was that the stump would be nine feet tall, including the root, and the pit we’d dig to excavate it would grow to 6 feet in diameter, and at least 4 feet deep. With the help of a fellow volunteer, of strong Midwestern stock, we broke the pick-ax handle, the shovel handle, and had to sharpen the hatchet. It took us only two days, but we impressed them all.

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How’s That for a Week! (We’re Calm as Cake)

Kyrgyzstan, needless to say, has had quite a week! I’ve gotten a lot of letters asking for my status, and I’m pleased to report no bodily harm, and hardly any harm done to my beautiful, Sunny Naryn. One of your comments, though, stuck out to me in particular. “Carl,” it said, “you write of such a peaceful place, when I saw the news, I was caught totally off guard.” With this comment in mind, folks, I’d like to explain myself.

The press will corroborate that Naryn had it’s share of demonstrations leading up to the events of last week. As you might imagine, I was well aware of them. While Peace Corps does insist that I avoid anything political, that’s not exactly why I didn’t mention them.

See, I’ve heard the international news paint a grim picture of a poverty stricken country, strife with political upheaval. While in a way (especially numerically) that is true, it’s hardly the whole story. There are also people here, smart, honest, hard working people. People who want to get ahead.

On April 8th, 2010, a day that will surely be remembered in Kyrgyz history, while some people were making a ruckus in the center of Naryn city, others were taking out their garbage, and filling water pails for their homes. My homestay siblings were in school, studying, until the teachers, sick from teargas, sent everyone home. While some shopkeepers had shut their gates, other’s stayed open all day.

The next day, most of the city just took a day of rest. The weather was nice, and in the park in the center of town, across the street from the government building that had taken so much grief the day before, people just gathered. The dozens of benches were full of people, just sitting. While on my sanctioned one trip out for food that day, one drunk man came up behind me. “Do you understand Kyrgyz?” He asked.

“A little,” I replied.

He then had trouble making sentences, but his intentions were clear, “I’m sorry,” he said. Then he repeated himself. “I’m sorry, I’m sorry. We’re a peaceful people.” When the stories of violence in Bishkek recede, I’m afraid, so will the consciousness on Kyrgyzstan. For this, who will be there to apologize to them?

A few days later, after Peace Corps cleared us to leave our homes, I noticed a black circle out behind an apartment block with lots and lots of metal wires in it. I’d seen this kind of thing before. “Was this a tire?” I asked a woman passing by.

“Yes,” she said, “but it was just from boys, playing.”

“Right, but did they burn it?” I asked, imagining what fun I would have had burning a tire when I was little.

“Yes, but this was not from the revolution,” were her exact words, “they were just boys, just playing. We are not like that.”

And everyone I meet, it seems, wants to make sure I know this, the one thing I’ve known for so long. These people are kind, warm, hardworking and smart. They’ve got hard lives, but work hard to get ahead. They’ve got their problems, but so does everyone. This event should not define them, but they are plenty smart enough to know that to foreigners, it very well may.

I don’t write about the negatives I see out here, folks, because as enticing and newsworthy as they may be, they would do a disservice to a people and a culture I so passionately respect, and desperately want to help. For every story of disobedience, drunkenness or violence, there are hundreds of patience, generosity and common humanity. If I don’t tell those stories, who will?

(Plus, I need to save some material for the book.)

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Everyone is A-Okay

Once again, Peace Corps takes no position on any of the recent events.

That being said, we’re all fine. Peace Corps has been in touch with everyone consistently, and have said all volunteers are safe and accounted for.

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I’m Safe

As a U.S. Peace Corps volunteer I cannot comment on what has happened, but information can be found at BBC and Eurasianet.  Rest assured, Kyrgy Carl is safe and sound.

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When Language Just Isn’t Enough

First of all, folks, Spring is officially on its way, and the thaw is just magical. I know I have written about this in just about every recent letter, but I simply can’t express how great of a change it makes. People are out and about constantly, and the bazaars are filling up with produce. There is a fresh excitement in the air. Seasons here, folks, are very, very real.

But that’s not the story for this week. This week is about a struggle. While learning to speak well is very important, just knowing how to talk isn’t always enough.

This story takes place at my friend’s dinner table on evening. His host-father asked me the question that so flatters America, “where are you a teacher?”

“I’m not,” I responded, “I work at the UNDP. We do poverty reduction, try to help people help themselves.”

His response surprised me. “That’s bad work,” he said, “only people who can’t work for themselves work at big institutions like UNDP. My volunteer is a teacher, that is good work.”

What I didn’t know was that he had friends who had been burned working with UNDP and other international organizations, like the Asian Development Bank. Without knowing this, I fell into my standard routine of explaining my work. This lead to a lively conversation about why we do what we do, and why we work at the very grassroots  level that we do. He maintained that we should just give out trucks and other machines, and I explained why that was an unsustainable solution.

I walked away from this conversation very satisfied, as in the end he agreed with me. I had changed a mind, I thought. I had taught someone something I believed in, and thought very valuable. Plus, I had held my own in a complicated conversation, and we really discussed some heavy issues. It was exciting, deep and stimulating. This was not how my friend’s host dad walked away.

After I left, he said to my friend, “is Chicago kind of a troublesome place? It seems like it would be one.” This translated pretty clearly to, “I didn’t like that boy.”

What I hadn’t realized was that my conversation wasn’t polite. From his perspective, I, a boy 40 years his junior, had blatantly contradicted him at his own dinner table. I had stood my ground and refused to agree with him. He found me belligerent and argumentative. Plus I had ignored some very clear signs. For example, when I had tried to lighten the mood, and tell some Kyrgyz puns that are invariably met with laughter, he had simply said, “see, that’s the kind of dumb thing UNDP people say.”

Polite is different in different places. At my home in America, friends who don’t engage in dinnertime conversation are suspicious. This kind of conversation would likely have lead my father to say, “that boy has passion.” I had been so proud of my language skills, I had ignored cultural signs. Language, folks, without culture, simply isn’t enough.

But every experience, for better or for worse, is a learning opportunity, and never fear, next time, Kyrgy Carl will know just what to do.

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