Archive for May, 2010

Bishkek, Bishkek!

Since my last letter, my life has been defined, not by intimate, grassroots work, but by the other half of the work out here, the Western part.

Down in the sweltering Chui Valley rests the Metropolis of Bishkek, a city of anywhere between 800,000 and 1.2 million, depending on how you ask the question.

I had needed to come down from my mountain home to mail a laptop sleeve sample out to a prospective partner in Germany (hot dog!) and arrange a visa for my impending trip to the deserts of China this summer.

Where we in Naryn are just starting to feel the magical rays of real warmth, Bishkek is basking in it. Even in jeans and a t-shirt, I found myself sweating. Bishkek, folks, is a different world.

First off, there are white people. Lots and lots of white people. I was simply taken aback. As I asked around, the only thing I heard was, “you should have seen 10 years ago!” For whatever reason, it hadn’t struck me during training. But a year later in Sunny Naryn, it was shocking.

This white person prevalence led to another surprise: dramatic insistence that I speak Russian. Here in Naryn, folks just ask if I know Russian, and then go on with conversation. In Bishkek, though, I kept running into, “what do you mean you don’t speak Russian. How is that possible? You must speak Russian.” I even had a drunk man on a public bus simple berate me for lying, until the nearby women came to my defense.

But the real stand-out experience was staying in the heart of the city, with some ex-pat friends. These were information seekers and do-gooders: journalists and NGO directors. They had hot showers, refrigerators, good wine and wireless Internet. At one point, I found myself cruising around in the backseat of an SUV with the subwoofer bumping jams from the 80’s. We went out for Mexican food, where the sangria flowed liberally, and spent another day at a “health resort” that featured outdoor seating, fountains, and a horse riding stable.

“I don’t hear much Kyrgyz,” I told my friend.

“It’s almost looked down on around here, even among the ethnic Kyrgyz.” He said.

There is a real foreigner community here in Bishkek, folks, previously unbeknownst to me. They live at Western standards, though at dramatically reduced prices. But we all got along. We’d talk about the local politics, about development theory, the health of the country, and farming practices. These folks were all tapped into the country, though in a different way than me.

“I feel a bit like a country bumpkin among you guys,” I told my friend, the one who invited me out.

“Don’t worry, man,” he said, “I think these people admire your passion for this place. You are seeing a very intimate Kyrgyzstan, one we don’t really get to see.” It was mutual respect all around.

And then, after these few days of these novelties, the food and the thinking I’m Russian, I got on a public bus for Naryn city. I was the only white face to be found, and people were apologizing for getting in each other’s way. And I knew I was going home.

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Green Salads and the Bloggers of Tomorrow

It’s a wonderful, happy world here in Sunny Naryn. For those of you who hadn’t heard the news, we had a little bit more revolutionary violence in southern Kyrgyzstan last week, and there was some fear that things could get really hairy. But the Kyrgyz people showed their true colors when they rallied together and kept everything cool. It’s just a wonderful time to be here.

On top of that, there is more cause for celebration. This past weekend, I had, for the first time in recent memory, a fresh green salad! We had skinned cucumbers, cabbage, and onion greens from the garden. Mix this together with pepper and mayonnaise, and it was like a little taste of forgotten magic.

The milk, folks, is getting cheap, too, as the cows now pasture in the nearby hills. That means yogurt, cream, and lots of fermented cow milk. Folks are even telling met the kymys, or fermented mare’s, milk will start flowing from the mountains soon!

With the weather truly warm, and the politics seemingly settled, it’s like sitting in the dawn of a bright new day. And with that in mind, I’ve paired up with another volunteer to help teach Naryn’s very own Future Bloggers of Tomorrow. Attracted by the exciting and dramatic success of KyrgyCarl.com (not really), these girls, part of the US Embassy’s gceKyrgyzstan.ning.com project, have gotten the blogging buzz. Their school’s are well equipped with American funded computers and Internet. They are sharing their culture, goals and dreams with the wonderful world that is the Internet. We all firmly believe, that with the right tutelage, they will be the best the world has to offer.

Back at the home front, I’ve finally gotten my compost heap up and running. It is sitting in an old wooden box in the back, but with the right mixture of green and brown matter, it is starting to heat up (Thanks Corey and Farmer Dan!). I convinced one neighbor kid to stick his hand in there and feel it, and now he believes I’m some kind of magician. Who knows, folks, I might even develop a following.

And speaking of home, after we dug up that stump out back, remember, my host dad said, “we’ll put a new room there, and tear down this old one!” I hadn’t believed him. But he’s proving me wrong. We’ve officially laid the foundation for the new room (which, when finished, will sport a big south-facing window), and are tearing down the old one.

As I emerged from my house this morning, I found the men already working, having made great headway tearing down the old room, that used to service as a mudroom. As a result of their efforts, our shoes were scattered all about the yard. As I looked around for mine, I came to a loss.

“Guys, have you seen my shoes around?” I asked, gazing at the man on the roof, and his nice black, leather boots.

“What did they look like?” they asked.

“Brown leather!” I replied.

“Oh, these?” It was the other guy, sitting on the steps. He was pointing to his feet.

They say, folks, that Kyrgyzstan has a collectivist culture. Sometimes, I believe them.

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The Many Faces of Victory Day

While not a big holiday in America, May 9th, Victory Day, marks the defeat of Nazi Germany. WWII memorials are a ubiquitous feature in the Kyrgyz landscape. Soviet losses during WWII were among the greatest in the entire war, and their victory was a rallying point for all citizens of that once great empire.

That history has a long fingers in Kyrgyzstan. Among those are the Victory Day celebrations.

We started here in Sunny Naryn with a festival. Near the center of town there is a park with a giant memorial. Here thousands of people gathered. The entrance was lined with school children dressed to the nines in formal, quasi-military uniforms. We had a small march of soldiers, a 21-gun salute, and speeches by WWII survivors. These men, relics of an older time, came covered in medals. One, pushed in a wheel chair, brought an Uzi.

From there I made my way out to my new second home, the hamlet of Orto Nura. I had been invited under the auspices that they’d be slaughtering not the mainstay sheep, but a supple little lamb. This folks, I just couldn’t resist.

As for my part, I brought some of the fresh produce that has been showing up in the bazaars. Last week I saw radishes for the first time in months, and a large crowd around them. Since then, tomatoes and cucumbers have appeared, and their prices have been dropping. Since they first appeared, prices have dropped by half. My 1 kilo of tomatoes still cost and outrageous 2 dollars, but after we made the steadfast Kyrgyz favorite, tomato and onion salad, it was all worth it.

Before dinner I walked around the village, and checked out some of the new trees, and shopped around my Tree Growers Association. Then, after soft, soft lamb, and it’s intestines tied in knots, we headed out for a walk.

The mountains around Orto Nura are a wonderful thing. While across the river they are immediate, large and foreboding, on the Orto Nura side, they are smaller, accessible. Half an hour in, following one branch of a Naryn River tributary, we found a little house. It was neat an tidy, with trees and a little potato patch. There was a low animal barn around back, and kids in front. As we approached, the matron came out to greet us.

“Come inside!” we her first words, “we’ll have yogurt.”

This was Kyrgyz hospitality at it’s finest. They asked about us, where we came from, what we did. We asked to our own interests, like where the solar panel on the side of their house came from, and if they lived here year round (“no, no,” she said, “we move out in the summer, to the mountains.”)

And then, when I said I hailed from the Great Windy City, she just laughed, “oh! My brother lives there. He drives a taxi, you’ll have to look him up.” The world folks, just keeps getting smaller.

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Trees for the Kyrgyz! A Success!

So, folks, this is special letter number 2. In the first one, I pitched to you all the Trees for the Khirgeez project. In this second letter, with 110% raised, I’m sending out a big thank you.

On the first day of the fund raising, we collected nearly half of the total requested money. The next day, brimming with confidence, I placed the order. What followed was an exciting, stimulating, and incredibly helpful week.

First, with faith that the whole $1,750 would come, I called my director and said, ‘I’d like 250 apple trees, 250 apricot trees.”

To which he responded, “Carl, how are you going to pay for this?”

“The money is coming from America,” I said.

“When?”

“Well,” and I stuttered, wondering this myself, “it needs to be transferred.”

“Is it definitely going to come?” He asked.

“Yes, definitely,” I said.

“Okay, then don’t rush.” That folks, means your one and only Kyrgy Carl was extended 500 fruit trees, on credit. As a good cash wage out here is $300, that means I was trusted with half a year’s salary.

Next, I went to Orto Nura. The people were afraid that the trees might not grow, but their fears were based on lack of experience, as the tree experts had assured me. Once I assured them, I dropped the bomb: “we’ll be here in three days. Get ready.”

Three days later, on May 3rd (okay, I jumped the gun) with 75% of the money for the project raised, sure that you all wouldn’t let me down, I brought the trees to Orto Nura. In community development theory, giving things away leads to people not really caring about your program; you must ask them to invest. So we charged people around thirty American cents a tree. Even out here, this is a pittance.

We gathered crowds, and trained them. All the trees had a knot at the stump, and we showed them to have the knots just clear the ground, and to face east, towards the rising sun. We told them to put bits of old metal under the roots of the apple trees, and to add manure, and water them generously.

And the people came out in droves. They came in cars, by horse, and on foot. They sent their children, with small wads of crumpled bills, sometimes buying only 1 or two trees. The average was 6 per person. If these people had needed to pay full market rates, they wouldn’t have been able to afford a single one. Rachel, the Orto Nura volunteer who brought this project to her village, lives there, and knows the people. This allowed us to extend trees on credit.

At the end of the day, I walked around the village. People were building yards for their new gardens, and circling the trees with small rings of stones. I saw people digging huge rocks from their yards, preparing the ground for their trees, and inevitably, every knot faced east. And then, over the next two days it rained and rained, like a blessing from God.

Folks, you helped people who didn’t have ¢30 in their pockets build new sources of income and nutrition. My American side was disappointed there was no grand opening, or fancy gala. Instead, the moment was intimate, it was small scale, it was grass roots by definition. I’ve put up photos and a video of the work on KyrgyCarl.com, please, go check it out.

The next step now is trying to form a Tree Growers Association. As I do that, folks, rest assured, you’ll be with me every step of the way.

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Trees Trees and More Trees!

It has sure been a full packed week here so far. For those of you who didn’t hear, I set out to bring 500 fruit trees to the hamlet of Orto Nura, just less than one week ago. I had requested that you all might help raise the $1,750 required to see the project through to completion, and thus far, we’ve already got 72%. First off, thanks a lot folks. The donation period will end on May 5th, and we’re almost there.

Since then, I have been working as hard as I can, drawing on every skill I’ve so far developed to get this tree project off the ground.

I first heard about the wonderful co-op that brings trees down from the fertile Issyk Kul nurseries in their own truck, complete with moist dirt and expert trainers to assist tree recipients, from my counterpart at the UNDP office here, where I currently work. She put me in contact with the director of Zhash Danaker, for those of you who remember, my original work site.

With assurances from the experts that trees would grow in Orto Nura, I set out to convince the people. While I had been asked to do the project there by one resident, others were concerned that their little place in the sun was just too cold for fruit. So, armed with information to the contrary and some elementary Kyrgyz, I set out for the village last Friday to spread the good news.

Needless to say, the residents that I sat in the taxi with on the way down all thought it was a great idea. “They will grow,” one older lady said, “we’re just lazy.”

“Plus, we need to be taught,” said another passenger, “the people on the lake know about growing trees, we need to learn.” Perfect, was my reply, I’m bringing experts, too.

Then, in Orto Nura, freshly excited from this interested, I fell upon the Alphabet Holiday at the local school. Teachers, parents and students were all gathered, and the kids were reciting riddles, tongue twisters, and portions of the great Kyrgyz epic, the Manas. While my PCV partner in this, Rachel, and I chose not to steal the children’s thunder, after the event, during the teacher’s tea break, we sat together, and I said to the woman next to me, “hey, I have an announcement, but I’m a little embarrassed to just give it.”

Something about this kind of eagerness seems to appeal to the Kyrgyz, and she glowed, “Ladies, this boy here has something to say!”

Then, with a room of 10 middle aged teacher ladies at my disposal, I began with my standard, “I don’t speak Kyrgyz well yet, so if I mess up here, will you all help me out?” And with nods, and smiles of agreement, I told them what I wanted to do, and Rachel’s pen got busy as the tree orders piled in. That plus an eager local government almost assures we’ll make this happen.

The last and final step, as I looked over the nuts and bolts of this project, was actually getting your generous donations into Kyrgyzstan. The logistics of this were something I hadn’t previously considered. My bank said my current account wouldn’t accept American dollars, but if I set up a new one, they’d give me the “SWIFT” codes I needed to make it all happen.

And that folks, is that. 500 trees for Earth Day and Arbor Day, generously paid for by you all, my friends and family, made possible by me and the Peace Corps. For the actual event, I’ve got a handi-cam. So stay tuned for the video folks, this one is gonna be for the record books.

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