Two Stops Past Siberia
- Projects
- Handicrafts
- Books
- A History of Inner Asia, Svat Soucek
- Beyond the Sky and the Earth, Jamie Zeppa
- Chasing the Sea, Tom Bissell
- Empires of the Silk Road: A History of Central Eurasia from the Bronze Age to the Present, Christopher I. Beckwith
- Erica Marat, The Tulip Revolution: One Year After
- High Adventure in Tibet, David V. Plymire
- Setting the East Ablaze, Peter Hopkirk
- Shadow of the Silk Road, Colin Thubron
- The Day Lasts More than a Hundred Years, Chingiz Aitmatov
- The Great Arab Conquests, Hugh Kennedy
- The Lost Heart of Asia, Colin Thubron
- This is Not Civilization, Robert Rosenberg
- Three Cups of Tea, Greg Mortenson & David Oliver Relin
- Informations
Archive for category Bonus Content!
Out of the Frying Pan and into the Field
Posted by KyrgyCarl in Bonus Content! on August 18, 2010
Well, after a large, healthy lunch, we have made our way our to a sainfoin field. This is an Asiatic legume that KNZRT has introduced to these farmers as a highly superior feed crop in these high altitude areas. If the farmers weren’t producing this, they’d be growing simple hay that would provide very little value to the animals.
It being a legume also has the benefit of nitrification of the field. I’m told that 5 years after the first crop, the roots get very thick, and the crops need to be rotated. This is just fine, as the now nitrogen rich soil works expertly for the improved potatoes.
There is also some growing interest in this ultra-blogging I’ve been doing myself. The two noble Kiwis are both deep into their fifties, and are getting just such a tickle out of watching me blog from co-ops and fields in this such a remote region. They have delighted in sending emails to their wives, and telling me stories of how when they first came here, nearly ten years ago, it was nearly impossible to get in touch with anyone, much less update their blogs (if such things existed back then) from behind a hillock of hay.
Development Theory over Lunch
Posted by KyrgyCarl in Bonus Content! on August 18, 2010
As I promised, we’ve another mountain of food resting before us. We’re all seated on the floor around a low table, with women bringing us milky tea as we talk and await the meal. We’re talking development and markets, with the resident Kiwi experts trying to figure out what the ceiling for bakery production might be here in the At Bashy rayon.
Before we arrived, Tony related to me a story that he said, “struck me right between the eyes.”
“When we first came to the sewing cooperative 2 years ago, the lead woman came out to thank me for the machines. ‘Don’t thank me,’ I said, ‘I want to thank you for doing so much with the resources we gave you.’ ‘No,’ she said, ‘thank you for having the faith in me. Thank you for giving us the confidence to have a vision.’”
Besides Kyrgyzstan, these guys have worked all over the world. I’ve asked them to tell me about what development work is like in other places.
“In Kyrgyzstan, they have the experience of working with someone who had a vision. The Soviets told them of their grand plans, and the people remember those kinds of dreams. Much of the program here involves taking the ideas they had in the past, and scaling them down from giant collective sizes to individual sizes.
“Take silage, for example. In Soviet times, there were giant pits to provide silage for an entire cooperative farm. Today, we need to reteach silage techniques to the farmers, and show them that the process can be done on a much smaller scale.
“Also, in Kyrgyzstan, there are roads just about everywhere. Everyone is literate, and everyone is numerate. In places in Cambodia or Nepal, for example, records books will be a complete mess, because not everyone can understand them.”
From these conversations and others, I see a pretty bright picture for the people of Kyrgyzstan. As far as colonized countries are concerned, the post-Soviet nations have a certain leg up. As a former Peace Corps volunteer from Guinea recently pointed out to me, “Kyrgyzstan was colonized for long term occupation. The Russians intended to keep this land forever, and thus developed like it was a valued part of the empire. Guinea, on the other hand, and many other parts of Africa, were simply looted. The people were not educated to be an asset, but divided an kept ignorant while the colonial power plundered.”
Right now, I can hear dishes rattling in the kitchen, and can smell the boiled meat. Our table of bread, salads and sweets is about to start brimming over with food, and I had better get back in there.
Bakery Bread to Rival the World
Posted by KyrgyCarl in Bonus Content! on August 18, 2010
I have now made my way over to the 2 year old Gulazyk bakery group. These incredibly active women make some of the best bread I’ve had in country. They are out in the farthest corner of nowhere, and finding a market for their goods is a challenge. They tell me they sell at the famous At Bashy Mal Bazaar on Sunday, as well as through some of the little shops in local stores. They’d like to sell in Naryn city, they say, but transportation is, at this time, prohibitively expensive.
One of the most common questions by the Noble Kiwis is: “How has the income from this cooperative improved your living standards?”
these ladies, making around 4,00o som a month, have given an answer consistent with other successful groups: “our flocks of animals are growing.”
Normally, they try to keep the size of their flock the same, from year to year, they say. Between sales for basic needs, they also slaughter a certain number of animals for food in the winter. These women report that with the income from their group, they are able to keep form slaughtering their animals, allowing their flocks to grow. In an area of poor agricultural yield that relies heavily on livestock for wealth, this is a huge deal.
It’s half past noon now, and preparations are growing for lunch. I can only imagine the feast that awaits us.
Sewing in the Mountains
Posted by KyrgyCarl in Bonus Content! on August 17, 2010
Well, instead of going to the bakery, we have found ourselves on the premises of a small sewing cooperative. They have four different sewing machines, and 4 happy ladies working here. Most of their products are school uniforms and frilly, fancy dresses. They say they also make curtains, and even some shyrdaks!
Brian regaled them with a story about how he bought a shyrdak from them last year, but it was held at the very strict border going into New Zealand. “If you want to sell to foreigners,” he told them, “your product must be very, very clean!”
“But we can’t clean the wool,” they said, “we don’t have the machines.”
At that point, Brian leaned over to Tony and said, “perhaps we can get some machines out to these ladies.”
Now, everyone is talking about the future. Is the cooperative growing, they want to know. Are they increasing membership. What kind of goals are they setting for the future?
There is also the question of the curious Savings and Credit fund. As part of the program, before any resources are doled out, each newly formed group is required to start a Credit and Savings fund. Each member pays into this fund every month. Initial contribution is usually around $5 (200 som), and monthly contributions range from under one dollar (20 som), to $3 (100 som). Then, at a self-identified interest rate (usually %5 or %10), the women can loan this money out to members. One goat group we visited yesterday had built a war-chest of 20,000 som! At this point, there is high discussion on how to advise these women on what to do with their funds.
Now, as our meeting is concluding, the conversation has turned to competition. There are many women around with these sewing skills, and more cooperatives nearby. We are trying to convince the women that working together, and growing the cooperatives is a better idea than competing with each other for the limited local market.
“Work together!” Brian has been saying, “with more output, you can market your product outside of just your village, even in Bishkek! But if you don’t make those connections, you’ll run yourselves, and each other out of business.”
The Kyrgyz Fattening Program
Posted by KyrgyCarl in Bonus Content! on August 17, 2010
We are coming to the end of our meeting here at the dairy group in Ak Muz. The group is called “Ak Adilet,” which I think translates to “White Equality.” This sounds kind of strange in translation. It stems from “ak” or ‘white’ have a number of meanings. The best I can explain is in terms of the blessing, “may you have a white road,” which is like saying ‘happy travels.’ Does this give a better explanation for white “White Equality,” would mean? Try “Glorious Equality.”
Anyway, here we are with the concrete questions having been answered. The group told us all about how they buy milk at one price, and then improve it. On top of this, they save their product to sell during the winter, when prices are higher. With the numbers out of the way, we have broken into what we’ve been calling the “Great Fattening Program.”
This refers to how, being guests, we are treated to food at just about every meeting. Here, right now, I’m before a table featuring watermellon, kurut balls, bread from a nearby bakery (also part of the KNZRT program), cookies, fresh cream, some chocolate candies, and a curious brown mixture of condensed milk and sugar, that has been described to me as Kyrgyz Halva. In order to present this little snack, the ladies of this group nicely removed the intestine and organ sack that was holding some of their fresh butter. (Of this butter, they told us it sells much better than butter stored in western-style containers, as the flavor isn’t as good, and the storage less convenient.)
From here, we’ll visit the bakery that produced the wonderful bread we’ve just had. Most likely, the first hour of that meeting will once again involved the nuts and bolts financial figures that make up their business, and the second hour will be a gigantic meal. Never fear lack of detail, for rest assured, I’ll keep you posted.
Starting Our Day in White Ice
Posted by KyrgyCarl in Bonus Content! on August 17, 2010
I have arrived in the village of Ak Muz. It is larger than I had expected, with a main street featuring four of five little shops. After we left Naryn, where I’d normally make a right in order to head to At Bashy, we went left. My maps say this is the last village of substance before the Great At Bashy mountains.
We’ve found ourselves in a dairy producing self-help group. Upon entering the little room where they work (about 12 feet by 30 feet), I was overwhelmed with the smell of kurut, the hardened yogurt ball I famously lauded as the “food I finally disliked,” so long ago. This much kurut in one place also took me, through my nose, back to the monasteries of Tibet, and their pungent yak-butter lamps.
Right now, as I write, Brian and Tony, the two noble Kiwis, are getting the specific financial details on the workings of this group. To m amazment, not only will they ask for specific costs (price of inputs, price of labor, price of transportation, price at time of sale, etc.), they’ll calculate them on the spot, and check to see if their calculations match the numbers the women have listed in their accounting books.
On another note, these men, both introduced as revered “white beards” by their translator, are simply amazed by this little “blogapalooza” exercise. While they work, I update my blog, all of us standing in the same place, in one of the most remote spots on the whole world.
A Kyrgyz Morning
Posted by KyrgyCarl in Bonus Content! on August 17, 2010
Well, my grand designs of staying up through the night in order to blog and blog away were thwarted by incredible sleepiness. It was a dreamless sleep, but one that will prepare me for the work I need to do today.
In about half an hour, I will be meeting the crew of international developers from the Kyrgyzstan – New Zealand Rural Trust, and we’ll be heading out to the village of Ak Muz, or White Ice. Once there, we will do the same thing we’ve been doing all week: meeting with self help groups, and determining how successful they’ve been at implementing the programs introduced by the Trust in order to help them relieve their own poverty.
Some of the things I’ve seen out on these village visits have just blown me away.
For example, one of the programs involves potato growing. Groups are given potatoes of a vastly improved variety from what they’re used to, plus fertilizer, and the money to build an improved potato wintering storage facility. While this is all well and good, what surprised me was wear the improved potato seeds came from.
“Kochkor,” I was told.
“But Kochkor is only 2 hours away. You mean these better seeds have been two hours away all these years, and your program is the first group to try and bring them to Nayn?”
“Yes.”
“Most of these people have friends or family in Kochkor. Couldn’t they have arranged this themselves? I thought your seeds would have come from abroad!” The answer I got here reiterated something I knew, but didn’t appreciate the extent.
“You see Carl, to farm families living in poverty, risk is the worst thing in the world. They’ll be happy to keep eeking out the same living if it means being sure they’ll have enough to eat. People in this situation seldom want to try something new, because if they do and fail, well, they’ve got no margin of error. What we are here to do is reduce that risk.”
A noble goal, and, as far as I can see, a pretty successful one. Today I’ll be writing every hour, through my bright day, and the darkness of America’s night. For all of you night owls, I hope I’ll have an interesting story to present.
Just More Lights in the Darkness
Posted by KyrgyCarl in Bonus Content! on August 17, 2010
Well, it’s been half hour or so, and my little host-sister is still it. We’ll have to see what kind of difference a few hours makes…
Explanations on Trees, Pt. 2: Economics
Posted by KyrgyCarl in Bonus Content! on April 29, 2010
I wrote yesterday about the quality of the fruit trees available to the people in and around Naryn Oblast, the murky information, and the unfortunate issues with timing (available saplings vs. still cold ground). I also said that we were paying a premium for our trees, and today I’m going to explain a little bit about what’s going on there.
The saplings that I showed pictures of yesterday cost between one and two dollars a piece. The trees we are buying cost $3.50 a tree, but it’s more complicated than that, and while the difference is significant, so is the product.
The trees from yesterday came from a nearby nursery. They were dug out of the ground any time within the last two weeks, and transported as they looked there to Naryn city. The roots may or may not have already been allowed to dry.
In order for a person from Orto Nura to get their hands on these trees, they’d need to take a shared taxi to Naryn city ($1), spend their morning buying, lets say, 2 trees ($4) and then take another shared taxi back to Orto Nura ($1). So far, we’re at six dollars total, three dollars per tree, not including the opportunity cost of spending their whole morning away from their fields in the Spring. They could of course improve the unit price by buying more than two trees, but that gets us to the issue of transportation.
When preparing to bring home their spindly, 6 foot saplings in the shared taxi back to Orto Nura, they’ve got some options. They could, A) push them into the back seat of the taxi, with the other passengers, B) fold them up in the trunk with whatever everyone else is carting home, or C) tie them to the roof. For the already fragile plant, none of these are particularly enticing options. Even if they can find another means of transportation, one which will cause a little less stress to the plant, they’ve still spent significant time and cash money on a very fragile commodity.
(In fact, “cash money” is important here, more than just for teenage parlance. These farmers spend a large part of their lives outside of the cash economy, and most of the cash they do have goes to gasoline for their tractors. Throwing “cash money” at a risky venture is not the wisest decision.)
Then there is the risk. As the residents of Orto Nura have been quick to point out to me, their village is cold, and has gotten colder. They used to grow lots of wheat here, and I’ve seen the old wheat grinders sitting idle in barns. “The weather broke,” is the simplified explanation I get. Despite the income benefits and health benefits being so high coming from fruit trees, the risks are also high.
After the villager has spent one of his Spring mornings in town buying trees (remember the Kyrgyz axiom: Each Spring day lasts an entire year), he now brings them home to a hostile climate. Already fragile, in the absence of specialized tree growing knowledge, the cold winter is likely to kill these saplings before they ever produce fruit. This makes purchasing a fruit tree such a risky economic decision, people in this village believe that they simply won’t grow.
But that’s where the Trees for the Khirgeez project comes in. First off, with a climate not that different from northern Wisconsin, the professional tree growers have sworn up and down to me that fruit trees, especially apple and apricot, can grow in Orto Nura. We just need to change some of the initial conditions.
First off, we are bringing the saplings in from the Lake a little later in the season, when the ground has had more of a chance to warm up. Next, the cooperative on the Lake will be digging them up the day before they arrive in Orto Nura and then transporting them all the way there, in their own truck, filled with their own top soil: these roots won’t dry out. Next, when we distribute them, we will be teaching the people where best places to plant them are, and how to take care of them during this first, crucial season. The icing on the cake? Thanks to your contributions, we’ve reduced the time and cash input required by the villagers from a morning and three dollars a tree to just twenty five American cents. That’s a pittance, even out here.
So, folks, while the chances that every single tree we get to the people out here will take root is not absolute, we are dramatically changing the economic decisions involved with fruit trees in Orto Nura. But what I’ve explained to you all here, I also need to explain to the residents themselves. Expect some radio silence for at least tomorrow, folks, as I’m heading out to that village again, to go door to door, and explain why this will work, and why the people should, at least, give it a try.
Explanations on Trees Pt. 1, Quality
Posted by KyrgyCarl in Bonus Content! on April 29, 2010
So, in the Trees for the Khirgeez program, we’re paying a premium for our fruit trees. We’re doing this for a number of reasons, and mainly because quality product, good information and organization out here are scarce commodities, and the NGO we’re working with boasts all of those qualities.
The state of the state out here is that most people don’t have fruit trees. Traditional wisdom has dictated that the climate is just unsuitable. However, I have personally seen homes with thriving trees: apricots, apples, and even cherries. So the question becomes, how come some people can do it, and others can’t?
First I spoke with my homestay family, “where do people normally get their trees?”
“They get them from the forestry department,” my host dad said, “but I just went their with my coworkers, their trees are no good. They’re all dry. You need to buy them earlier.”
This confused me. I had been planting with my host mom in the garden, but she held off our venture, “the ground is too cold,” she had said, “I can feel it.” My friend Rachel and I had gotten similarly rebuffed during our Earth Day subotnik in her village when we tried to plant flowers in front of her school. While people told me that you can plant saplings in Naryn’s cold Spring ground, I imagined this was one of the limiting factors in tree growth.
Next, I headed out to the local forestry service, where folks told me they sell
trees. What I found was less than promising. There was a narrow building with nice murals but no one to greet us, and then a large lot with some rows of little trees. We poked around for a bit, wondering what was going on, until a security guard came to shoe us away.
“Who are you?” he shouted from across the lot, “don’t take pictures.”
I greeted him jovially, not wanted to raise suspicion. “My friend and I Peace Corps volunteers, we work helping the villages. We are working with trees right now, and people told us we could buy them here.”
“Here? We don’t sell anything here. Look around, what would we sell?” He made a good point.
“So where can we buy trees from?” we asked.
“There are nurseries, in the villages. Uchkun, Jangy Talap and Eki Naryn. You can go there,” He said.
“And they are selling them now? They aren’t too dry?” I asked, echoing concerns I had heard from Kyrgyz people.
“I don’t know! I don’t sell things, I am security,” and he pulled out his ID, “you can go there, and ask them.” Everything was conducted with a smile, but he was intent on showing us the door.
My host mother, conveniently is from Jangy Talap. So, while I was poking around in the garden that night, I asked her.
“We have a park there, but its not a nursery,” she said.
“Do they sell trees?” I asked.
“Well, they sell raspberry bushes. But they sell those at the Forestry Service in Naryn, too.”
“I was there today,” I said, “they said they don’t sell anything there.”
I had also heard that they were for sale in the bazaar, but that these were no good either.
“The roots aren’t supposed to dry out,” one of my coworkers told me, “but in the bazaar, maybe they were pulled from the ground two weeks ago. Who knows? But they won’t grow.” Needless to say, the gentleman I met who sold saplings in the bazaar disagreed with my coworker’s assessment.
This, folks, is the problem I encounter on a daily basis. Everybody tells me things, but they are never entirely accurate. No matter how much my language improves, there are always little mysteries. Whenever I try to get projects off the ground, whenever I try to start things myself, new information inevitably comes to light. I’m working with the wrong people, the prices are wrong, the season isn’t right.
And that’s why I got so excited with this current project. First of all, it was
pioneered by foreigners. That’s a big deal, because it means that somehow, these people already waded through the same language and cultural barrier I live in. Next, I am working with the same person those foreigners are working with. That means he is familiar with us silly little devils. And finally, I’ve double checked all the details over and over. The prices haven’t changed, neither have the requirements. Just as the details were for the other foreigners, so are they proving for me. This folks, is going to happen.
Tune in tomorrow, and I’ll talk about why our price premium isn’t as significant as it seems.



