Archive for category Letters

Assertive Tendencies Among the Mounting Snow

Well, the snow is finally here. The last two times that I have written about snow here in Sunny Naryn, they were one time, freak events. Where last year we had boat loads of snow from October on, this year it has taken its sweet time. But, if the international news is serving me well, it sounds like compared to the Midwest and Europe, we’re still getting off easy.
 
On the one hand, folks, the snow has its upsides: heightened surface albedo makes a flashlight unnecessary at night. On the other hand, though, it brings with it new challenges, and that’s where my story takes us today: to the local politics of snow removal.
 
As I was shoveling the driveway this morning, I had a wonderful idea: why not make a speed bump of snow, I thought. That will slow down cars in this winter wonderland! And so, with my makeshift plywood shovel in hand, I killed two birds with one stone: pretty property, safe neighborhood.
 
Then one of my neighbors emerged. She was all dressed up for the cold, and had two kids in tow. “Hey, quite making a mess,” she said, motioning to my hump of snow. But my reply was curt.
“No,” I said.
“Cars will run into that,” she said.
“I know,” I responded, “kids play here, like yours. The roads are slippery, this will slow down the cars.”
That quieted her, and she just stood there. Then, whether to imply she was going to tell on me, or just as a shift to normal conversation she asked, “is your host dad at work?”
“Yes,” I told her, and then went on my merry way. 
 
Now, a year ago, the young Kyrgy Carl would not have been nearly so bold. It’s not that I wouldn’t have defended myself, but quite the contrary; I never would have done something like that in the first place. By this point, however, I’ve been around the block.
 
First off, I’ve seen more substantial, though still hand-made and ad hoc speed bumps in other places, even on the main roads between villages. Second, I’ve gotten taste for how things like this get done around here: by individual effort, and individual decisions. If I want to slow down traffic, it is up to me to do it. People will have their opinions about what I do one way or the other, but no one is likely to stop me, much less undo what I’ve done.
 
A year ago, I would have let the traffic continue to speed down my snowy street, feeling that it was not my place to impose my values. Today, I’ve got a lay of the land, and a sense of how to attack problems. I’ve done enough work that I can defend my decisions, and furthermore, my actions. I can put responses in context: this woman was about to go for a drive, her expressed desires don’t speak for the community as a whole. Last spring, when I drained a huge puddle, some old ladies lauded my efforts, a very drunk grandpa told me I was desecrating a holy space, and a crew of drunks help me did. The tenderfoot volunteer has a much harder time differentiating between individual voices and the sense of their community.
 
Now, when I get home from work today, I’ll surely find out what my host family thinks of my new blustery confidence, and we’ll see whether I’ve gotten ahead of myself after all.

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Love with a Foreigner from a Far Away Land

A seed; a bud; just a small kernel of a moment blossomed into a mighty flower this week. Its zenith found poetry, and came in the form of a text message:
 
“Love is sharper than a knife, deeper than the lakes, and effects all people. Carl, I have fallen in love with you. Please, give me an answer. Venus”
 
This saga began in a small village last week, the last village, in fact, before China. It was the second of 5 villages to receive the training series that I mentioned in my last letter. In this village, I had been standing outside when I noticed a group of second grade girls staring at me from afar.
 
“Don’t be shy,” I said, “come over here and talk with me.” And so they did. They asked where I came from, and if I was married. I asked them the same thing, and we all laughed. Before they left, they showed me some pictures that had drawn, and then asked if I’d sign their sketch books. For each one, I wrote that the world was theirs, and that they should remember to study hard. After perhaps ten signatures, the senior class girls started to pass by. They asked me the same questions about my origins and my marital status, and also for my autograph, and just as with the little ones, I happily obliged.
 
But they also insisted on getting my phone number.
 
I know what you’re all thinking: warning sign. But this, my friends, is Kyrgyzstan. Let me explain phone number culture here with a little vignette:
 
When I was in Bishkek last week, I was in the car with a friend, a successful owner of an investment company. At a red light he started staring at the man in the car next to us. “He doesn’t remember me,” he said, “but he hit me with his car when I was 15. Now he is an important guy.” At that point the man rolled down his window and they greeted each other. “You don’t remember me, but you hit me with your car 20 years ago,” said my friend.
 
The old man was less than ruffled, “oh, how are you?” he said.
 
“Fine, fine,” said my friend, and then after some more pleasantries, my friend asked for his phone number, and the man shouted it out as we parted ways, without even a hint of hesitation. Personally, I probably give out my phone number to strangers once a day here in Sunny Narym. It is an easy thing to do, because simply put, they never call. But with these girls, it was different.
 
I knew something was up at first when they started talking to each other about how they were going to need to get an unlimited calling plan, for just between our two phone numbers. And it wasn’t half an hour after I left them (while having our car tire repaired with some string), that I got the first phone call.
 
“Hi, Carl,” she said, “this is Mahabat. Please save my number.”
 
“Sure,” I said, and we hung up. Over the next day, I got a similar call from Cholpon, and then a round of text messages, all pleasantly benign. But then, two days later, I got the poetry laden message from the girl who’s name translates to Venus, that she had fallen in love with me. And was not shy about it at all.
 
But folks, it is not all as grave as it seems. My girlfriend, who works with girls of this age, laughed heartily. “Do you love her back?” she asked, chuckling in spite of herself. She brought me over to her coworker, a university teacher, for advice on what to do.
 
“Oh, just ignore it,” she said, “these girls have so much time on their hands. This is how they have fun,” and then she grinned, showing off her full grill of golden teeth, “unless, of course, you love her back. Then you should tell her.” Needless to say, I’m maintaining radio silence.
 
Here’s to love, in whatever form it comes.

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Hillary Clinton Loves Peace Corps (But We’ve Still Miles to Go)

Let me get to the meat of it folks, I shook hands with Hillary Clinton. That’s right, I said it. Her hand was soft. None of that, of course, explains the grin captured on my face in this official US Embassy photo, however. I thought I was just smiling sweetly the whole time, but I’ll let you all be the judge of that.

It was a funny little moment, to have such an important visitor come to such a little country. She was fresh from a spell in Kazakhstan, and her time in Bishkek was little more than a layover, as she left not 6 hours after arrival for Tashkent. Between those two countries, however, she was able to meet with the president, shake many of our hands, (“Peace Corps? The rowdy ones!”) and field some interestnig questions at the local university.

“Mrs. Clinton!” Came a shout from the back, “How can we get more Peace Corps volunteers?”

“I love Peace Corps!” She said, “I look into it!” Now we’re all looking in to what that really means.

But as she left Kyrgyzstan’s great capital, so did we, and in Naryn again, it was business as usual. Personally, I found myself in one of the places I love the most, a tiny village, with poor cell phone coverage and hardly two nickles to rub together. I was out monitoring a training, where one local euntrepreneur was teaching village women to make slippers.

“Before I came here,” she told me, “these women couldn’t make more than one variety of slippers, now they can make 12.”

I took pictures and smiled, and even got a pair for myself. And then, I sat back, and appreciated the moment.

The house I was in was covered in traditional art, from rugs to wall hangings. There were only 4 rooms in the place, and only three were heated. The women were working feverishly. The trainer, one of the women who led my natural dyes training, had agreed not only to lead the sessions, but also to comission 100 slippers from her students. Her plan is to sell them at a festival in Germany in January, along with the products of other trainings, and from her own co-op. Fast forward, 6 weeks from now, to the clean and warm and comfortable world these slippers will enter. How will they even remember the tiny corner of our Earth, cold, where so little grows; that place where they came from?

And one of the trainees was as heartfelt as a person can be. “Please,” she said to the trainer, “teach us everything you can. Out here, we have nothing else.”

And from Hillary Clinton, among the most powerful women on Earth, who’s time was so tight that every one of her moves was choreographed by an army of aids, to these women who wanted only to learn how to sew, I had to wonder, really, in the past two days, how far had I come?

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15 Volunteers, Two Pies, and Three Live Turkeys

Before Thanksgiving dinner, my friends, I was hungry. My home here in Sunny Naryn had been absent responsible, adult supervision for nearly three weeks. Between the eating habits of my 14, 13 and 6 year old host sisters, food was thin and Kyrgy Carl was getting grumpy.

Come ol’ Turkey Day, however, that all changed. In a feat of organizational prowess, 15 of us descended on the village home of just one volunteer. This boy, Travis, with his legendary humor, gained notoriety as being the first volunteer to have to explain to his host family that his need for a toilet had trumped his ability to reach one (if you catch my drift.)

Travis arranged not only for accomodations for this tribe of hungry Americans, but also for an event far more fun than football: he bought three turkeys, and we took turns in the slaughter.

My friends, it is surprising how hard one needs to swing in order to completely sever the neck of a turkey with one swing of an ax. It is amazing how easily those feathers come off in hot water. And it was a real wonder how bad the inside smells, even when you’ve spilled no poop. But, between the girl named Yoder, who grew up on a chicken farm, and some other volunteers well versed in the art of cooking, we turned those birds into real, live, food.

Saturday night turned into a feast like none other. All 15 of us sat around a table, we made toasts, told stories, and ate lots of food. We had stuffing and mashed potatoes with lots of gravy. We had salads and soups, and topped everything off with apple and pumpkin pie. Needless to say, by the end of the weekend, my hunger had abated.

But that wasn’t all. When I got home on Sunday, I found my host-mom. “Carl,” she said, “I’m sorry we’ve been gone for so long. We were in Bishkek. We bought an apartment.” It is a small place, but I can’t help feel like my years of rent helped foot the bill. It is an investment. “the girls will stay there when they go to college,” she said, and I beamed.

Everyone got their dues, it seems, and everyone made it home happy. Wishing a happy Thanksgiving, to all of you, and all of yours.

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Twilight in the Cleansing Snow

First of all, I’d like to thank everyone for your overwhelming responses to my last email. Who knew I could get such a boost by just admitting to feeling under the weather.
 
The response to my illness by the locals, now, was a bit different. My favorite came from the stoic, Russian teaching woman who makes my laptop sleeves.
 
“I know what the problem is,” she said through her steely eyes. “It is cold, but is hasn’t snowed yet. It is always like that, for us Kyrgyz people. When the snow comes, it makes everything clean.”
 
But consider the world healthy again, folks; we got our first treatment of snow last night, and I’m feeling the healthiest I’ve felt all week.
 
Furthermore, the rapidly shortening days paired with this crisp snowy air are bringing me back to last winter, when I might wake up to a host-sister, ruby cheeked, rubbing her face in snow telling me that, “this is the best way to rise.” With the cold most assuredly set upon us now, we may soon slaughter another cow, and definitely will hearken in the days of warm sheep and noodle soup to end every (single) day. I know more of what to expect this year, and that comes with its pros and its cons.
Indeed, my friends, I am already making plans to be home next Spring. I can already feel my Peace Corps service winding down before me. With around six months remaining, the time for starting new projects has largely come and gone. Now is the time to fulfill the many grandiose plans I have made, to consolidate my connections, and impart as much wisdom as I can muster.
 
One exciting project that is currently barreling down the pipeline is a shyrdak design course underway at the University of Paderborn in Germany. Last year, a budding German entrepreneur approached me and asked if I’d help her execute a course at the textile design program at her local university. After plenty of emails, this course description is what emerged. For you eager beavers, run that little German gemstone through a translator, and you’ll notice a whole bunch of references to local Kyrgyz co-ops preparing the designs that the course produces. That, friends, is yours truly, hard at work. The course itself is underway as I type this. I’ve been told that participants boast old Soviet era ties to this part of the world. The best designs will come to me, and the local ladies will make them into reality.
 
Later this month we will winterize those trees from the spring, and come January next year, I’ll start telling you all about the (vastly increased number of) trees I’d like to plant to 2011. That plus a couple of local trainings seem to be how my service will finish up out here. It’s been a long road thus far, folks. I’m not quite on the final stretch, but I can see the last curve before, and even as I write, twilight is coming down over the city.
 
We’ve been together for 20 months so far my friends. I feel somewhat like Yossarian as Catch-22 winds to a close: of the 60 of us who convened in Philadelphia, only 27 remain; the faces of the new group now seriously outnumber the old. This time is a quiet and reflective time. And as just another chapter, it is exciting all the same.
 
 
P.S. Happy Thanksgiving! And how come nobody told me there’s going to be a new Mayor in Chicago?!

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Pardon My English, But I Feel Ill

Just as the French word for seal led to the expression, “pardon my French,” so too might the Kyrgyz one day say, “Pardon my English,” thanks to our word, sick, which carries a similarly unmentionable meaning. That being said, just in case any Kyrgyz people out there are reading, I’ll put it softly: I feel ill.

I woke up Sunday morning with a headache, a powerfully sore throat, and oscilations between feeling hot with cold chills that made my skin tender to the touch, and feeling cold with incredible sweating. In this state of illness, I have been allowed to make new observations about living abroad.

While I find myself generally quite enamored with life here, while ill, those feelings change dramatically. I find myself wishing only for a hot bath and warm soup. I want a toasty bed room and family or close friends to watch over me. I don’t want language barriers. I don’t want dried bread, black tea or dried meat. I want to be home.

This, I think, is a laugh. These are not feelings I get very often. I generally like the bread, I like  the tea, and I just love the meat. The language barrier usually makes my little brain tingle. But it underscores an important point about life out here: when things get hard, the safety net we’re used to largely just can’t be there.

I spent most of the day at my girlfriend’s apartment. Her little, well kept bastion of Americana made things easier. When I didn’t want to eat, she understoof exactly what I was saying, and why I was saying it, so she didn’t pressure me. Instead, she got me American soul food that is usually too expensive to indulge in: bananas, oranges, fruit juice. Later, another friend came over and we had grilled cheese sandwiches with tomato soup. At that point, though, I still wasn’t even in my own bed.

When I got home, my host parents weren’t around, and my host sisters, at 13 and 14, did their best. They gave me tea, and insisted I keep my bedroom door open, so that the heat flowed in. It was warm and loving and caring. But all in all, it still wasn’t my America.

And that to me, a stalwart lover of simply being abroad, spoke more to me than anything else. While everything was good, and everyone around me helped in such wonderful ways, it was still foreign. And when feeling so so bad, foreign just can’t cut the mustard.

That all being said, I’m largely better now. The Peace Corps doctors helped me out in the most American way possible: lots of drugs. Thanks to a well timed holiday and a veritable cocktail of pills, I’m back on my feet. In the words of Roger Rabbit, “Thank goodness for modern medicine.”

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Headless Goat for the Harvest

The game, folks, in Kyrgyzstan is called Ulak Tartysh. It is kind of like our polo, but with a significant difference: instead of a ball, the riders fight over a headless goat. That’s right, I said it.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, Ulak is not a game unique to Kyrgyzstan. Among other countries, it is also played in Afghanistan (where it is called Buzkashi), where the referees purportedly carry AK-47s, lest things get too rowdy.  In Naryn, though, the horse-riding refs donned kalpaks and other big furry hats. The only rowdiness was extreme inebriation, and that seemed limited to just some of the fans.

With the coattails of Fall well upon us, the fields of At Bashy rayon are hard and bare; the perfect makings for an Ulak match. The game was held last Sunday, as part of Tushum, the festival of the harvest, in a place the locals dub the hippodrome. When we arrived around 11am, we found well over a thousand spectators sitting on a south facing hill. Before them was a large field in the foreground, with the high and powerful At Bashy mountains towering in the distance. The field itself held men on horseback numbering in the hundreds, perhaps 30 of which would participate in the variety of events for the day.

We ourselves showed up with the Kyrgyz spectating essentials: sunflower seeds, bread, fresh fruit, and plenty of vodka.

We heralded in the day’s festivities with a round of shots, and then turned our attention to field. Tiny figures were crouched on a yellow mat, and surrounded by a ring of men on horseback. Five minutes later and out of breath, I had run to the center, and found they were wrestlers. Wrestling is a traditional sport here in Kyrgyzstan, and local villages had sent young men to garner pride and cash prizes.

With the wresting finished, ten men on either side put on their uniforms and rode past each other shaking hands: the Ulak match had begun.

This game folks, is hard to describe. The headless goat looks like little more than a gray lump on the ground. Perhaps 6 players from each tea take them field, and then bunch up around the carcass and fight until someone breaks away. Once this happens, the crowd surges and the rider charges towards one end of the field where a giant mound of dirt stands with a hole in the middle. The team who gets the goat in the hole the most times wins. (To see the game first hand, check out this clip from Rambo III, Mr. Stallone does surprisingly well…)

With the underdog champion at 3 to 2, a horse race began, and so did the drinking, in earnest, though our bottles were just drying up. My friend Scott, who lives in At Bashy, saw the signs before I did. “I’m kind of getting tired of the scene,” he said.

While we had done little more than drink casually, the men around us had gone all out. As the circle of curious drunks around us grew, it became clear we should have left with the women and children, whom Scott astutely noticed, were long gone. But for these savvy volunteers, all was not lost.

Just as demands on us to buy vodka grew to their peak, the taxi we had pre-arranged showed up and whisked us away. “Those guys look pretty wasted,” our driver said, chuckling. The day was rough and tumble, but when the sport involves headless livestock, who could ask for it any other way?

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If You’re Offended, Go to Talas

For the second time in as many weeks, ol’ Kyrgy Carl has left the mountain paradise of Sunny Naryn for the warmer, more urban bastions of Kyrgyzstan. However, unlike last week’s frantic mission for sewing machines, this journey was a slower, friendlier, more artistic adventure.

The whole event started in the far back seat of an overcrowded passenger van. I had been taken in by a wide eyed and well dressed, ten-year-old village boy who said, so sweetly, “come, ride with us.” With me well in his pocket (and by his mother’s urging) he proceeded to sit on my lap for the duration of the journey.

As every trip in country must roll through Bishkek, this was, by necessity, my first stop. Before even arriving, however, I got a very excited preliminary phone call:

“Carl, we’re gonna have dinner tonight with a writer. He did Peace Corps Uzbekistan, even wrote a book about it. He’s kind of a big deal.”

The man turned out to be Tom Bissell, and was delightful company. He was working on a book where he visits every site said to hold the remains of an Apostle, and was in town researching one alleged grave of Saint Matthew, said to be buried in an old monastery on the shores of Lake Issyk Kul. “In the book,” he said, “basically I will go to the site, talk to some people, and then go into the history.” If the quality of his company is any testament to the quality of this new book, I say, keep an eye out for it.

From Bishkek, then, it was on to Talas, home of the expression, “if you’re offended, then go to Talas,” as well as my friend Corey. My travel companions were David (who some of you may remember as the owner of the SUV and 80’s music from last summer) as well as his caring and wildly intelligent girlfriend.

Talas itself is kind of like Naryn, but different. It is poor and isolated and very Kyrgyz, much like Naryn, but less so in every way: the area has a strong bean market, leading to affluence, it has a direct road to Kazakhstan, making it less isolated, and still has some Russians. The Talas city bazaar is twice the size of Naryn’s, and carries a wider selection of items, like sewing machines, home-made jam, and pork. All this with roughly the same number of residents.

And then, there are beans. Talas is unarguably the bean capital of Kyrgyzstan, and the locals don’t even eat them. “They are regarded as poor person food,” Corey told us, “almost all of them are sold abroad.” Not all, of course, mind you. At least 40lbs have been sold domestically: specifically, of course, to yours truly.

After some overall fun, a short run in with some local hoodlums, and just enough work with Corey’s NGO to make it a business trip, quick as we came, we were gone again. It was two days of much needed catching up. I haven’t seen Corey since this summer’s visit to China, and it seemed much too long.

And then, on our way home, one moment stood out like no other. As we crossed one of the high passes to return to Bishkek, deep in a mist of fog, horses emerged from the mountain side: two cowboys were moving a heard.

“Whoa,” was my line, and “get the camera,” was David’s.

And so there we stopped, 11,000 feet in the sky, the three of us, friends, each artists in our way, to simply absorb the moment. It was, indeed, what life is all about.

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Capacity Building: Kyrgy Carl Style

This happy day catches yours truly freshly home from a tradition set forth by my father, and his father before him: the business trip. Unlike in the stories of old, however, my trip was neither a sales call nor a networking event in the Bahamas; I left on the mundane errand of buying sewing machines. But things are not always as simple as they seem.

I got a call last Monday night, vaguely frenetic, insisting that we leave the following morning.

“Have you called the store? Have you placed an order?” I asked, not really believing the answers held any relevance.

“Yes, yes,” they assured me.

Then I called Peace Corps. “I need to leave my site, tomorrow morning, for Bishkek. I don’t know how long I’ll be gone, or where I’ll be staying.” This was highly unorthodox, but by some grace of God, my manager had faith in me.

“If you need to go,” she said, “then go! We’ll take care of the details tomorrow.”

It is a day’s drive to Bishkek, and by evening time, I found myself in the home of a relative of my coworker. She was a prosperous woman who’d made good in the sock business. Her sister, my true partner, was engaged finding other machines elsewhere, and had roped this woman into her service. She, in turn, had roped her brother into caring for us and it was in his house we were staying. He was a trained economist who now worked with wood.

“Will you write a project for me?” he asked.

“But you already have all the machines you need,” I said. “You know how to use them, and have plenty of wood to work with. What help can I give?”

“Ah,” he sighed, “asking for help is just our way. Our president asks for help. Even our millionaires ask for help.”

The next day started out with promise: we headed out for a sewing machine store, were met by an impeccably dressed fashion designer, and set to picking out the proper machines. I think the pretty Russian girl behind the desk just thought I was quiet, and her jaw hit the ground when she, at last, heard me rant not in Russian, but Kyrgyz. This meeting, however, was not to be.

“If we buy the machines here,” they finally told me, “they will charge us a 12% value added tax. That just will not do.”

What then commenced was a jaunt, a journey, a day on the town. We may have visited every sewing machine dealer Bishkek had to offer. We talked with Uighur peddlers in a sewing supply bazaar, with small Kyrgyz shop owners, with a man who just seemed to have connections, and even a local Turk named Taliban who made polite conversation by informing me on the value that a kidnapped foreigner (like myself) might fetch in Tajikistan.

The sister griped constantly, bemoaning the process, and I just followed, carrying my giant stack of Kyrgyz bills close at all times. In the end, a nice Kyrgyz shop-owner agreed to deliver the machines to the house where we were staying. When we finally made that deal, it was the third time we had set foot into his establishment. Then, that night, after dinner, I finally grew tired.

“Here,” I said to the sister, a woman who now held my total confidence, “here is the money for the machines, just get this done.”

In many ways, however, this is as it should be. I swap money for work, that’s my bag. In their own way, they worked hard, and got the job done. All I had to do, really, was ride in, and write a check. If only it could all be so easy.

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Smoky Yogurt and Blessings: Happy Birthday

I once wrote how when my Uncle Dennis died, it was my host-grandmother who provided the only real comfort from anyone in my vicinity. I came to believe, then, that it was not necessarily our host-family relationship that led her to reach out to me, but something more fundamental: only that she is a Grandmother. Cultural differences all aside, I seemed to find myself in the presence of one honest universal: that grandmothers, whomever’s they are, care.

And so it was this morning that I rose to find my near-blind, well hunched and toothless host-grandmother, doddering around the kitchen; ensuring that I had tea and yogurt and leftover sheep for my breakfast. She spoke to me in the diminutive, like always, encouraging that I eat and that I drink, and insisting that I not rush. It was then that I thought I’d mention to her that it was my birthday.

“How old are you, grandma?” I asked, knowing full well the answer.

“86,” she said.

“Today,” I told her, “I’m 26.”

“26?” and she smiled, “you are 60 years my junior!” She was so bright, I knew I’d done the right thing. “Long life, happy life, good family, much happiness,” the blessings just went on and on. Then we sat down, I drank my tea, and dipped sliced of sheep into garlicky salsa.

“I don’t have any gifts for you today,” she said, out of the blue, “so let us say a prayer – To a long life, a happy family, a wonderful life,” and the litany began again. We ended it with the Kyrgyz “omin,” just the two of us, paired with the face washing gesture that ends every meal, and accompanies every prayer. A gesture that has taken on so much significance.

I had living grandmothers of my own once, and I loved them both. I used to listen to their stories, and pull on the papery skin of their hands. I read eulogies at both of their funerals. In one, I asked my family not to let the bonds she had built for us fall into neglect with her gone. At the other, I imagined her waiting at the gates of Heaven, patiently, for the time when we could run, like children, into her arms again.

Even while writing this now, I have just received a call from a coworker, another grandmother, to dole out even more birthday blessings; I don’t even know how she knew. Was it intuition?

Family, host-family, friends, girlfriend, coworkers – this story, my story, has been over and over, all about them. And I wonder, is this the story of Peace Corps? Or is it, simply, just the story.

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