Two Stops Past Siberia
- Projects
- Handicrafts
- Books
- A History of Inner Asia, Svat Soucek
- Beyond the Sky and the Earth, Jamie Zeppa
- Chasing the Sea, Tom Bissell
- Empires of the Silk Road: A History of Central Eurasia from the Bronze Age to the Present, Christopher I. Beckwith
- Erica Marat, The Tulip Revolution: One Year After
- High Adventure in Tibet, David V. Plymire
- Setting the East Ablaze, Peter Hopkirk
- Shadow of the Silk Road, Colin Thubron
- The Day Lasts More than a Hundred Years, Chingiz Aitmatov
- The Great Arab Conquests, Hugh Kennedy
- The Lost Heart of Asia, Colin Thubron
- This is Not Civilization, Robert Rosenberg
- Three Cups of Tea, Greg Mortenson & David Oliver Relin
- Informations
Posts Tagged banya
Some Things
I’ve been out here a little while now, and there are some things that are just normal. Like, normal normal. But then again, sometimes, when I’m in the right mood, I notice them, some of them.
For example, I stopped by my old host family the other day, to give them some information on a project going on in the town government. It never even occurred to me to call before I came. I just walked into the back yard and opened the door. My first round of greeters were some extended family. They were excited, invited me in and we talked. Then, as it turned out, my former mom and dad were hosting two just-married couples, each around 21 years old, plus some other neighbors. The spread was as grandiose as anything I’ve ever seen. And me, this unexpected visitor, I received a warriors welcome. A prime seat at the table, appetizers, tea, vodka, anything I could have wanted. That night, my paltry command of Kyrgyz and my mangled toasts received applause.
Right. Normal.
The next night at dinner, at my own home, we were having soup: broth, potatoes, carrots and a giant hunk of lamb, still attached to a broken in half bone. Well, I cut off all of the meat, and most of the fat, just leaving the cartilage. For the first time, as I watched the my family pound their bones on the table to release the marrow, I did the same. Not liking the taste, I gave it to my dad. To my surprise, instead of eating it himself, after pounding it out on his spoon, he served it to my two-year-old brother. Then, with his own knife, he finished off the cartilage.
Yeah! Normal!
Now, last night, I went to the banya (the sauna, steam room, bathing place.) This was a private one, one you make reservations for. I go with two guys who live down the street. One is 25, my same age, and the other is 27. This little banya we frequent features a side room with pine panels and hot rocks. Its just big enough for the three of us to sit, naked, with our thighs touching. If this wasn’t normal enough, I’ve also gotten used to compliments on the cut of my circumcision.
Usually, I look at the ground, and just kind of laugh. “Well, I didn’t cut it!”
“Who did?”
“A doctor!”
“Oh, our grandfather cut ours, when we were three years old! Look, see, yours is way better.”
Like I say. Totally, completely, normal.
I must not be naïve to think this is necessarily the normal life for a Kyrgyz. Would the average person, showing up unannounced to a guesting, be invited in as I was? Would he be called to take shots with the oldest man at the table wrapped in each other’s arms? I don’t know. Would I get the same attention in the banya that I do, if I were just a regular Kyrgyz guy? Who’s to say. What I do know, is that regardless of how life is for anybody else, this is all becoming quite normal for me.
Originally Written December 3rd, 2009
Great Sites on a Map of Chalk
So today, during the middle of week five, we all, the 60 current Peace Corps Trainees learned where we’d be spending the next two years of our lives.
This information had, previous to today, been a closely guarded secret. While, truth be told, they were still tinkering with their final decisions, the real reason for keeping us in the dark was to build a pungent anticipation for the announcement.
The ceremony revolved around us running to our announced locations on a gigantic chalk map of Kyrgyzstan’s 5 oblasts, or states, etched in the parking lot of the orphanage where we rent space to conduct our meetings. We all stood around the map, like the gallery of the Globe Theatre, to wait for our names, and applaud with abandon for our friends.
From this position, we ogled our fellow compatriots, picked out who to visit and when. The atmosphere was festive, jovial, missing only colorful tents and jugglers. Current volunteers came to great us, take pictures, share stories.
As I had hoped, I was placed in Naryn City, a place that will, in all honesty, feel like it is two stops past Siberia. Naryn sits at over 6,500 feet, nestled high in the Tian Shan Mountain range. Winters routinely reach forty below zero. The city is 99% ethnic Kyrgyz. Diet in the summer will be fruits and vegetables from the south, and in the winter is said to consist almost entirely of meat, bread and cabbage.
I didn’t enter the Peace Corps for an easy experience – and it doesn’t look like I’ll be getting one – in short, so far it’s everything I’ve dreamed of.
This news, naturally, put a positive spin on the whole rest of my day. I got ice cream with my teacher in Kant City on the way home. I was in a vest and a button-down, sleeves rolled up, perfect weather to see the fresh snow on the mountains. People often mistake me for one of the many fair skinned ethnic Russians, and today was no different. Every day I feel more like that last puzzle piece finally finding its home.
When I got to my house, the newborn puppies that live under our deck came out for the first time. Grandma, “Great Mother,” was outside tending to some toddlers, and my sister-in-law was slowly boiling a vast field of dumplings.
The night even ended with a surprise, mid-week banya! I stepped out into the cool night, freshly sweated clean, and whistled loud, knowing only that I wanted to interact with my world. My sister came out into the cold, to see only me, no late-night visitor. She laughed at me and went back inside.
I will tell you folks, the most amazing part of this entire experience thus far has been how similar everything is. I lay in my bed at night, thinking of how I could be sleeping anywhere. My family is a family like any other. We work to get along, to have fun with what we’ve got., and who we’ve got around us Its beautiful, and simple, and perfect. So much so far has been both profoundly grandiose and powerfully grounding. People are people, it seems, no matter where they are.
Originally Written April 28th, 2009
Dirty Has a Whole New Meaning
So I have a tendency sometimes not to fully explain my titles, it’s a bad habit. I do think a lot about every word, so this time, I won’t leave anyone hanging.
Dirty, I do believe, has a whole new meaning when you’re washing your clothes by hand. I did this for the first time yesterday. I was waiting until my language was good enough to ask about laundry politely, a decision I now regret. But that’s for later.
See, clothes need to be a whole lot dirtier if you’re going to squat with them, over a bowl of soapy water, grinding each article into itself. As I watched the chickens cluck about the yard around me, for the first time I envied their choice of wardrobe.
At one point I discovered that you could soap up one sock, and smash it into its pair, instead of washing one at a time! But then my sister-in-law caught me, and helped me do them over again.
I also had the luxury of bathing yesterday. See, my house doesn’t have plumbing, so this means bucket bathes – but not how you’d think. The experience, while resource intensive, is really quite pleasant. We have a thing called a баня (banya) (as most of my fellow trainees do;) it’s effectively a do-it-yourself steam room.
The heart of it is an old steal furnace. You feed it with wood through a hatch in the attached “changing room,” then enter the banya itself. First you seal yourself inside with the heavy metal door, then draw scalding water from a reservoir atop the furnace, mix it with cold water in a separate tub, and do your thing! I shampoo, lather (with a loufa!), and even shave (using an old rear-view mirror, of course!)
It’s hot, it’s sweaty, and when you come out, you feel clean as a whistle! Stories abound of host brothers coming in to scrub your back (as there’s plenty of room,) but unfortunately I’ve no first-hand experience. I don’t have the schedule down quite yet, but so far it seems we do it around once or twice a week.
Turns out the sunburn I got last week was a fluke. This month has been characterized by cold rain. Today started out much of the same, but now it is lightly snowing. My older brother (the guy I originally thought was a brother-in-law) insisted on fueling my меш (mesh,) the built-in, coal-fired heater in my room. The smoke runs through a series of ducts in the wall to heat the place. What all this weather means for my clothes drying under a tin roof, outside on the line, I don’t even want to think about.
Well, that’s all for now folks. Thanks again for all your responses. Sounds like I might get a few early potatoes, but odds are slim. Also, on a clerical note, are you folks seeing a long list of email addresses with each letter? If so, I’ll try to find a way to hide them.
Originally Written April 15th, 2009



