Posts Tagged cloud

Winter Food

The diet out here is changing pretty dramatically since the cold has really hit. Most notably, aside from apples (who’s time, too, is coming), fresh produce has receded into the realm of dreams. We still have the sugared jams and salads, made this summer not to rot, but otherwise, its bread, tea, potatoes and meat.

Speaking of meat, we just slaughtered the winter cow this past weekend. After deliberating between the purchase of a cow or a yak, my father decided to kill a heifer he had out in the village. We are now the proud owners of lots and lots of beef, sitting frozen in the garage.

The slaughter itself was an event. We tied the beast down, slit its throat, skinned it, and then proceeded to butcher it, as often with an axe as a sharp knife. During this time, our group of four nearly tripled in size, at one point blossoming with a dozen beers and a bottle of vodka. It was all done outside, and I have pictures of cold, bloody hands and organ meat in the snow. I felt pretty good, being able to identify most of the organs. It was the especially large sack that caught me off guard. Apparently, it did the rest of the men as well; I guess nobody knew the cow was pregnant.

Since then, most of our dinners have been well boiled organ meat. The water its boiled in, somehow tastes better than its sheep meat counterpart. The meat is fattier, with yellow fat, as opposed to the white of sheep. Also, every part is just bigger, from the intestines to the vertebrae. One night, sitting around a table of 13, after devouring some rice wrapped in stomach made to resemble a duck, I had the pleasure of watching my mousy little mother scrape rings of the cow’s esophagus with her teeth, as if it were an artichoke leaf.

Otherwise, we’re eating lots of garlic and onions to ward off the flu. The schools all shut down last week, owing to poor attendance on account of all the sick children. Folks with the flu are identifiable enough, all sporting white, cotton face masks.

Aside from tea, our drinks seem to revolve around the carbonated variety. Not beer or soda, per se, but a more uniquely Kyrgyz version. Here at home, I sit down to a tall glass of fermented cow milk in the mornings, and after dinner usually have a little bit of that “cloud,” which has turned out to be sugary tea fermented with a mold patty. After my tutoring lesson in the morning, I’m treated to a chunky, fermented barley drink, which is apparently good for my hemoglobin.

Winter is here, folks. Its good and dark by six o’clock, and doesn’t brighten again until well after 8. As cold as it seems, I’m told from Dec. 20 until Feb. 15 is the peak of the storm. I sounds impossible, folks, but if the locals can do it, then I can, too.

Originally written Dec. 10th, 2009

, , , , , ,

No Comments

Winer is Coming!

So, you’ve all gotten to be witness to my birthday, and now things are settling in here at my new home.

Some things I’ve learned, are different. Others, strikingly similar.

For instance, we still eat a lot of sheep. But here, when I told my father that I didn’t know how to butcher one, he looked quietly into my eyes and said, “I’ll teach you.” This is a sentence, it seems, he delights in repeating.

Here too, we drink funny drinks. Before, we drank a fair amount of shorpo, the salty broth from boiled lamb, preferably mixed with kimiz, the fermented mare’s milk. Here, already I’ve been privy to drinking a cloud.

This Kyrgyz legend, told in variations since I first arrived, has been somewhat clarified to me. Probably not a cloud shot with a gun and caught in a jar, as I was first told, but instead, perhaps just the mist of fog, if even that. What we have now seems to be the juice secreted from a rubbery fungus patty soaked in sugary tea. This fermenting concoction rests in a large jar covered in cheese cloth that sits on the kitchen counter. I get a small glass every night or so. My father says it will keep me regular.

Other differences mostly revolve around the people in the house. We have fewer relatives coming in and out than we had before. No workers in the yard, sticking around for dinner. All this may be on account of the change in season, but I notice it all the same. Instead of people coming physically in and out of the house, however, the neighborhood itself seems to be a closer knit community.

This may be because of the people in the neighborhood, but also, perhaps, because my new street is exceedingly narrow. With just the width enough for a single car, the neighbors, are quite literally, a lot closer. But the narrowness of the road (combined with its irregularity) keeps traffic light and slow. Here, the children play ball in the street, and neighbors amble around amiably.

Otherwise, life here in Sunny Naryn seems to revolve around the coming of winter. A new hat seller has appeared in the bazaar, selling traditional fur hats, ones he says he makes by hand. In every house I visit, with the last of summer’s vegetables people seem to be preparing a cornucopia of salads, to be preserved and eaten in the dead of winter. Snow is starting to fall on the passes, and people are beginning to talk about the safety of the roads. I’m also trying to get my hands on a traditional Kyrgyz winter coat, the kind made from corduroy and the pelts of sheep.

Its powerful, living so much closer to the weather. If I don’t have the right clothes by the right time, I simply won’t make out. If we don’t prepare the right food, we just won’t have it. Its passionate. Its intimate. And its just so wonderful to see.

Originally Written Oct. 16th 2009

, , , ,

No Comments

Drinking Clouds

He looked at me with those quiet, serious eyes, “have you ever drank a cloud?”

“No, I haven’t.” I said, “have you?”

“Yes.”

“Do you have some?” I asked.

Then he stood up, and walked to the other side of the table. He didn’t take his eyes off of me. As he leaned over and reached behind the couch we sit on at meal time, he slowly said, “yes.”

Now, I’ve heard about this. A previous volunteer told me the story. People shoot the clouds, and catch their falling bodies in jars. Then they drink them as medicine. I was told by one woman that it is like beer, just not alcoholic. Some Kyrgyz people say they’ve heard the story, but don’t believe it. Others insist that their grandfather did it, still others that men these days continue the practice, but only the ones who live in the mountains. Still, as these kinds of stories generally go, no one has seen it done, but everyone has seen the jars full of cloud, or at least knows someone who has.

So my curiosity was piqued when my father, the electrical engineer, whose family all lives internationally, whose wife is a doctor, and two siblings are chess grandmasters, the man who asks me complicated questions about investing in currencies, told me he had a cloud in a jar behind the sofa.

What he pulled out was a large glass jar, the opening covered in cheesecloth. The bottom two inches were comprised of a thick, three layered gelatin, white, brown, white. The gelatin didn’t touch the sides or bottom, but floated in what appeared to be water.

“This is a cloud?” I asked.

“Yes.” And then he went for his dictionary. “Mushroom, rain. Rain mushroom.”

That didn’t help. I repeated the words in Kyrgyz, and he just nodded somberly. He picked up the jar and made to pour. I didn’t really understand. I figured this cloud, or “rain mushroom” probably needed to stay sealed under its cheesecloth.

But he poured some of the water right through the cloth. The jelly kept its shape, just moving around along the edges of the jar until he set it down again, and it took its rightful place back at the bottom.

“Drink” he said.

“This is cloud?” I asked.

“No, its juice.”

I looked around the room. The kids had left, and its was just me, him, his wife and his mother. Grandma was busy shaking cow milk in an old motor oil jug to ferment, and mom was kneading dough. My dad had even stopped paying attention to me.

It was like I was in the twilight zone. I had just been told that this cloud jelly was a rain mushroom, and that I should drink the juice. But then no one seemed to care that I had a glass of this rain mushroom jelly cloud juice right in front of me.

So I drank it. Despite being clear, it tasted like a super thin, vaguely carbonated orange juice.

Now I felt like I had passed through some kind of ritual, and could ask questions.

“So, you shot the cloud, and collected it in this jar.”

“No, I didn’t shoot it. But it was shot. Nurlan gave it to me.”

“Where did he get it?”

“I don’t know. But he has it.” Then he got out the dictionary again. He pointed to a word, “constipation. Drink, and then, no.” Back to the dictionary, “intestines. Good for intestines. And stomach.”

Then he got up and left the room, and came back with another identical, but empty jar. He poured some boiling water into it, rinsed it out, and then filled it up about 3 quarters of the way. Then he poured some tea in. “Big spoon,” he said. Then began to add sugar.

“How many?” his mother asked.

“Five or six,” he replied. “First, boiling water. Then tea. Then, it must be sweet. Now, in two hours, when it is small, we will get more cloud from Nurlan.” He presented all this with the utmost seriousness. “Right now, in Germany, there is a,” back to the dictionary, “medical investigation going on. One million dollars research. Do you have this in America?”

“No, we don’t,” I answered honestly.

“I will teach you how to make it, and then we will start a business. This will be prepared later. Come, now let us say omeen.”

So we said omeen, and then left the table.

Originally Written October 6th, 2009

,

5 Comments