Two Stops Past Siberia
- Books
- A History of Inner Asia, Svat Soucek
- Beyond the Sky and the Earth, Jamie Zeppa
- Chasing the Sea, Tom Bissell
- Empires of the Silk Road: A History of Central Eurasia from the Bronze Age to the Present, Christopher I. Beckwith
- Erica Marat, The Tulip Revolution: One Year After
- High Adventure in Tibet, David V. Plymire
- The Day Lasts More than a Hundred Years, Chingiz Aitmatov
- The Lost Heart of Asia, Colin Thubron
- This is Not Civilization, Robert Rosenberg
- Three Cups of Tea, Greg Mortenson & David Oliver Relin
- Handicrafts
- Informations
- Projects
Posts Tagged explanations
Explanations on Trees, Pt. 2: Economics
Posted by KyrgyCarl in Bonus Content! on April 29, 2010
I wrote yesterday about the quality of the fruit trees available to the people in and around Naryn Oblast, the murky information, and the unfortunate issues with timing (available saplings vs. still cold ground). I also said that we were paying a premium for our trees, and today I’m going to explain a little bit about what’s going on there.
The saplings that I showed pictures of yesterday cost between one and two dollars a piece. The trees we are buying cost $3.50 a tree, but it’s more complicated than that, and while the difference is significant, so is the product.
The trees from yesterday came from a nearby nursery. They were dug out of the ground any time within the last two weeks, and transported as they looked there to Naryn city. The roots may or may not have already been allowed to dry.
In order for a person from Orto Nura to get their hands on these trees, they’d need to take a shared taxi to Naryn city ($1), spend their morning buying, lets say, 2 trees ($4) and then take another shared taxi back to Orto Nura ($1). So far, we’re at six dollars total, three dollars per tree, not including the opportunity cost of spending their whole morning away from their fields in the Spring. They could of course improve the unit price by buying more than two trees, but that gets us to the issue of transportation.
When preparing to bring home their spindly, 6 foot saplings in the shared taxi back to Orto Nura, they’ve got some options. They could, A) push them into the back seat of the taxi, with the other passengers, B) fold them up in the trunk with whatever everyone else is carting home, or C) tie them to the roof. For the already fragile plant, none of these are particularly enticing options. Even if they can find another means of transportation, one which will cause a little less stress to the plant, they’ve still spent significant time and cash money on a very fragile commodity.
(In fact, “cash money” is important here, more than just for teenage parlance. These farmers spend a large part of their lives outside of the cash economy, and most of the cash they do have goes to gasoline for their tractors. Throwing “cash money” at a risky venture is not the wisest decision.)
Then there is the risk. As the residents of Orto Nura have been quick to point out to me, their village is cold, and has gotten colder. They used to grow lots of wheat here, and I’ve seen the old wheat grinders sitting idle in barns. “The weather broke,” is the simplified explanation I get. Despite the income benefits and health benefits being so high coming from fruit trees, the risks are also high.
After the villager has spent one of his Spring mornings in town buying trees (remember the Kyrgyz axiom: Each Spring day lasts an entire year), he now brings them home to a hostile climate. Already fragile, in the absence of specialized tree growing knowledge, the cold winter is likely to kill these saplings before they ever produce fruit. This makes purchasing a fruit tree such a risky economic decision, people in this village believe that they simply won’t grow.
But that’s where the Trees for the Khirgeez project comes in. First off, with a climate not that different from northern Wisconsin, the professional tree growers have sworn up and down to me that fruit trees, especially apple and apricot, can grow in Orto Nura. We just need to change some of the initial conditions.
First off, we are bringing the saplings in from the Lake a little later in the season, when the ground has had more of a chance to warm up. Next, the cooperative on the Lake will be digging them up the day before they arrive in Orto Nura and then transporting them all the way there, in their own truck, filled with their own top soil: these roots won’t dry out. Next, when we distribute them, we will be teaching the people where best places to plant them are, and how to take care of them during this first, crucial season. The icing on the cake? Thanks to your contributions, we’ve reduced the time and cash input required by the villagers from a morning and three dollars a tree to just twenty five American cents. That’s a pittance, even out here.
So, folks, while the chances that every single tree we get to the people out here will take root is not absolute, we are dramatically changing the economic decisions involved with fruit trees in Orto Nura. But what I’ve explained to you all here, I also need to explain to the residents themselves. Expect some radio silence for at least tomorrow, folks, as I’m heading out to that village again, to go door to door, and explain why this will work, and why the people should, at least, give it a try.
Explanations on Trees Pt. 1, Quality
Posted by KyrgyCarl in Bonus Content! on April 29, 2010
So, in the Trees for the Khirgeez program, we’re paying a premium for our fruit trees. We’re doing this for a number of reasons, and mainly because quality product, good information and organization out here are scarce commodities, and the NGO we’re working with boasts all of those qualities.
The state of the state out here is that most people don’t have fruit trees. Traditional wisdom has dictated that the climate is just unsuitable. However, I have personally seen homes with thriving trees: apricots, apples, and even cherries. So the question becomes, how come some people can do it, and others can’t?
First I spoke with my homestay family, “where do people normally get their trees?”
“They get them from the forestry department,” my host dad said, “but I just went their with my coworkers, their trees are no good. They’re all dry. You need to buy them earlier.”
This confused me. I had been planting with my host mom in the garden, but she held off our venture, “the ground is too cold,” she had said, “I can feel it.” My friend Rachel and I had gotten similarly rebuffed during our Earth Day subotnik in her village when we tried to plant flowers in front of her school. While people told me that you can plant saplings in Naryn’s cold Spring ground, I imagined this was one of the limiting factors in tree growth.
Next, I headed out to the local forestry service, where folks told me they sell
trees. What I found was less than promising. There was a narrow building with nice murals but no one to greet us, and then a large lot with some rows of little trees. We poked around for a bit, wondering what was going on, until a security guard came to shoe us away.
“Who are you?” he shouted from across the lot, “don’t take pictures.”
I greeted him jovially, not wanted to raise suspicion. “My friend and I Peace Corps volunteers, we work helping the villages. We are working with trees right now, and people told us we could buy them here.”
“Here? We don’t sell anything here. Look around, what would we sell?” He made a good point.
“So where can we buy trees from?” we asked.
“There are nurseries, in the villages. Uchkun, Jangy Talap and Eki Naryn. You can go there,” He said.
“And they are selling them now? They aren’t too dry?” I asked, echoing concerns I had heard from Kyrgyz people.
“I don’t know! I don’t sell things, I am security,” and he pulled out his ID, “you can go there, and ask them.” Everything was conducted with a smile, but he was intent on showing us the door.
My host mother, conveniently is from Jangy Talap. So, while I was poking around in the garden that night, I asked her.
“We have a park there, but its not a nursery,” she said.
“Do they sell trees?” I asked.
“Well, they sell raspberry bushes. But they sell those at the Forestry Service in Naryn, too.”
“I was there today,” I said, “they said they don’t sell anything there.”
I had also heard that they were for sale in the bazaar, but that these were no good either.
“The roots aren’t supposed to dry out,” one of my coworkers told me, “but in the bazaar, maybe they were pulled from the ground two weeks ago. Who knows? But they won’t grow.” Needless to say, the gentleman I met who sold saplings in the bazaar disagreed with my coworker’s assessment.
This, folks, is the problem I encounter on a daily basis. Everybody tells me things, but they are never entirely accurate. No matter how much my language improves, there are always little mysteries. Whenever I try to get projects off the ground, whenever I try to start things myself, new information inevitably comes to light. I’m working with the wrong people, the prices are wrong, the season isn’t right.
And that’s why I got so excited with this current project. First of all, it was
pioneered by foreigners. That’s a big deal, because it means that somehow, these people already waded through the same language and cultural barrier I live in. Next, I am working with the same person those foreigners are working with. That means he is familiar with us silly little devils. And finally, I’ve double checked all the details over and over. The prices haven’t changed, neither have the requirements. Just as the details were for the other foreigners, so are they proving for me. This folks, is going to happen.
Tune in tomorrow, and I’ll talk about why our price premium isn’t as significant as it seems.
Don’t They Have Stores?
Posted by KyrgyCarl in Bonus Content! on December 3, 2009
I was asked this natural question recently when discussing with someone in America why it was proving difficult to get a traditional Kyrgyz coat. I think of things in terms of causes and effects, so at the time, I provided a long, elucidating (i.e. boring) answer. I thought it was good, so I’ll replicate it here, both as I should have on the phone that day (the Short Answer) and as is more appropriate for the impassioned observer (the Long Answer).
Short Answer:
Yes, but not for products like this, at least not in Naryn.
Cause/Effect Long Answer (as I see it):
Yes, there are stores here in Naryn, but not for big, wooly, Kyrgyz coats.
See, there are roughly three types of products I see on a regular basis in country.
- Simple or mildly enhanced naturally grown products
- Homemade things
- Manufactured products (2 forms)
- Cheap, Chinese stuff
- Higher quality, Russian, Turkish etc. stuff
The Mildly Enhanced Things:
The bazaars are filled with agricultural goods that are generally grown domestically, if not locally, and appear in their appropriate season. These include fresh produce, nuts, sunflower seeds, flour, sugar, pasta, etc. At larger bazaars, these can also include animals, like sheep, cows, camels and yaks.
The Manufactured Product:
These come in two categories, roughly, cheap Chinese stuff (as I heard one person ask, “is it normal, or is it Chinese?”) and other manufactured goods.
From China come little toys, socket protectors/converters, tape, shoelaces and just about any and all sundries one could imagine. There are also lots of clothes from China, recognized by their goofy English or Chinese writing. There are coats and shoes, blankets and curtains. In general, folks recognize the low prices, but always with the caveat that the product won’t last.
Then there are the other, higher quality products. There are good hats made in Kyrgyzstan (of all things), and there is also a domestic clothing industry. Other clothes come from Turkey. There are shoes from Turkey and Russia, and furniture, too. There are also some of the other soft goods present in the Chinese side, but made with quality, like outlet converters.
The Homemade Things:
This is where the story really begins. There are lots of things in country that are beautiful and work almost entirely outside of the cash economy. These, in my experience, are the romantic, cultural things that one comes here expecting see. They are mostly hand-made from the domestically grown products, like intricate felt products made from wool, jam from fruit, and sheep pelts worked into seat covers, floor mats, or in my case, huge winter coats. These are the things that, in my experience, as an outsider, are the hardest to attain.
The high quality, homemade product element of the economy, outside of specialty markets in Bishkek, go mostly unsold. They are generally produced by the women of a family. Here, a brief explanation of generalized gender roles, I believe, is in order.
Men, when not debilitated by the serious problem of unemployment and alcoholism, generally engage directly with the cash economy as office workers, government work (politics or police/military) or with farming and animal husbandry, the products of which are either kept for family use or sold.
Women on the other hand, can often be seen working as teachers, office managers, or at the small shops in the bazaars. When they’re not doing this, they are often in the house, cooking, cleaning, looking after the children, or producing these beautiful, romantic culturally informed products. Countless times, I’ve asked someone where they got a particularly well embroidered felt hat, or a detailed wooly car-seat cover, and the response is inevitably “my mother/sister/wife made it!” People take huge amount of pride the quality of the things the women in their lives make.
As a foreigner, however, this all makes accessing these products difficult. Some of the more established and marketable products have some outlet. The striking felt carpets called shyrdak see limited access at shops catering to tourists, are occasionally sold in bazaars, and have some minor distribution internationally. Embroidered felt hats for women also have some market access in the bazaars.
A larger market lies in the yarns and felts required to make these. This is on account of the fact that to make felt, by the traditional methods (as is still quite common), requires huge amounts of labor and takes upwards of three weeks (compared to higher quality machine made felt that takes only 30 minutes…).
This all comes together, in modern lingo, to say that if one wants any of these things, they must generally be “made to order.” And given that all of these inputs have their season, the order must be made well in advance.
For example, sheep are sheered for their wool (to make felt) in the Spring. In the summer, that wool is boiled and then wrapped around large cylinders and that again with wooden slats. This wood, wool, wood log of a sandwich is then rolled around the village, often behind a donkey, and repeatedly kicked and re-bathed in boiling water until it binds as felt. Then it is died. The died felt stock then, generally sits idle during the harvest and gets turned into hats, slippers or shyrdaks during the idle months of winter.
Products made of sheep pelts follow a similar, but shifted cycle. Sheep are most commonly slaughtered in fall. The pelts are then saved through the winter, and then worked in the spring and summer. So I’m told, the process involves treating the leather on the backside, somehow, with milk, the process needing to be done outside in the heat. Once again, these inputs are then kept around to be turned into seat covers, sleeping mats, or coats, for when people have free time.
Kyrgy Carl! Get to the Point Already!
So, now, on December 1st, I’m still trying to get myself that big, wooly, traditional Kyrgyz coat, and I’ve got an uphill battle.
First off, these coats aren’t as common as they used to be. They’re big, heavy, and make one look like they’ve come from a village. Most men seem to prefer slicker black leather coats from factories, or cloth overcoats. I’ve asked around and people either tell me only their grandmothers’ know how to make them, but are too old now, or just figure I’m kidding.
When I told my family I was planning to go to a large Sunday bazaar to ask someone I had met if they could make me one, they finally told me they’d take me out to see their grandmother. When they did, she pulled out two beautiful large coats, with price tags on them to boot! Turns out, with enough prodding, I found an old lady who used to make them for sale when the country was more prosperous. The tags on these unsold coats both, naturally, showed 1991, the year the Great Soviet Empire fell, and the huge amounts of funding for this area dried up.
But now, even once I’ve found this traditional artisan, from what will she make a coat for me? The 18 year old ones she had in a trunk are much too large, and she doesn’t’ have worked pelts just lying around. She could buy some raw pelts from the bazaar, as they sit around in big, bloody heaps for 75¢ a piece, but how could she work them, with winter having arrived? So, to get my coat, here as the tusks of winter are beginning to bite, I need to find:
- Someone who knows the skill, and
- Someone who has a whole bunch of worked pelts just lying around
In this country, where disposable incomes are so low, folks don’t just have stocks of wares sitting around, waiting to be sold. As my coworker just put so glib: “if you put in an order now, it’ll take a year! You need to get it before it gets cold!”
Now, tell this to a guy who got here 8 months ago, and whose language skills can just now barely get his points across. Like I say, it is this kind of article, while being the most desirable, I find are the hardest to acquire.
Originally Written December 1st, 2009
Update:
At the end of January, 2010, my neighbor walked into my house wearing a giant, white, sheepskin coat. Needless to say, it wasn’t long before I owned it. It is a former Soviet Army thing, with a hammer and cycle on the back. Below is a picture of the coat. The gentleman wearing it is not me, but my friend, Travis. Next winter I’ll try to get one up of myself, but for the meantime, this will have to do.
What is Peace Corps? (9_24_09)
Posted by KyrgyCarl in Bonus Content! on October 6, 2009
What is Peace Corps?
Now, I’m only 3 months into my permanent service, and I can only speak for my personal impression of the SOCD program in Peace Corps Kyrgyzstan. I’d be curious to see how my opinion changes over the course of my service, and how it compares to other volunteers in this country and others. That being said:
I feel like Peace Corps is more of a professional organization than anything else. Granted, a really sweet one that pays my bills, but still.
Explanation:
First off, when someone says: “I just got back from Peace Corps,” what do we think that means? This question got me thinking.
See, here at my site, I really have very little interaction with anyone who doesn’t live in town with me (and, no PC staff lives here…). I see my family everyday, my fellow volunteers, and my coworkers. I make connections with other locals, and try to arrange projects and work to do. That’s life, day in, day out.
So, where does “Peace Corps” fit in? Really, it is the social connections, the community they provide with other volunteers, that safety blanket. Everything else is either a convenient bonus or a bureaucratic necessity i.e. Peace Corps wants to know where I sleep every night. Also, there are invitations to various training events, and other newsy type updates: how to prepare for winter, relevant vocabulary and sometimes bureaucratic type issues. And then of course there are the nickels they deposit into my local savings account.
And This Means:
I am a professed “community development worker.” With no skills under my belt, and essentially no money to introduce into the local economy, my doings basically involve getting to know as many people as I can, getting to know this place as best I can, and at some point beginning to help these people improve their quality of life.
Peace Corps doesn’t really seem present there, does it. As far as I can see, Peace Corps is an amazing vehicle to get me into this community, they are my foot-in-the-door. The rest is up to me: do work, be happy, show that Americans are nice people, etc. You can see here, if I had some other way of getting in the door, really, (aside from the convenient little time frame PC imposes, and the clear resume addition it can become) I could do all of this without them.
(That being said, I should aside that being part of Peace Corps does give me the confidence to believe that within my two years, I will get something done. If I were on my own, I imagine I’d have to be pretty haughty to believe that.)
I think, before, I maybe thought that “Peace Corps” would be a more concrete thing. That when people said, “yeah, I did Peace Corps,” that it meant something specific. That, like, there was some box that that statement fit into. But they are just so surprisingly and delightfully hands-off, that I just don’t know what that could be.
Originally written Sept. 24th, 2009




