Two Stops Past Siberia
- Projects
- Handicrafts
- Books
- A History of Inner Asia, Svat Soucek
- Beyond the Sky and the Earth, Jamie Zeppa
- Chasing the Sea, Tom Bissell
- Empires of the Silk Road: A History of Central Eurasia from the Bronze Age to the Present, Christopher I. Beckwith
- Erica Marat, The Tulip Revolution: One Year After
- High Adventure in Tibet, David V. Plymire
- Setting the East Ablaze, Peter Hopkirk
- Shadow of the Silk Road, Colin Thubron
- The Day Lasts More than a Hundred Years, Chingiz Aitmatov
- The Great Arab Conquests, Hugh Kennedy
- The Lost Heart of Asia, Colin Thubron
- This is Not Civilization, Robert Rosenberg
- Three Cups of Tea, Greg Mortenson & David Oliver Relin
- Informations
Posts Tagged volunteers
Close of Service, and Hi-Ho! Farmer Dan!
15 Volunteers, Two Pies, and Three Live Turkeys
Before Thanksgiving dinner, my friends, I was hungry. My home here in Sunny Naryn had been absent responsible, adult supervision for nearly three weeks. Between the eating habits of my 14, 13 and 6 year old host sisters, food was thin and Kyrgy Carl was getting grumpy.
Come ol’ Turkey Day, however, that all changed. In a feat of organizational prowess, 15 of us descended on the village home of just one volunteer. This boy, Travis, with his legendary humor, gained notoriety as being the first volunteer to have to explain to his host family that his need for a toilet had trumped his ability to reach one (if you catch my drift.)
Travis arranged not only for accomodations for this tribe of hungry Americans, but also for an event far more fun than football: he bought three turkeys, and we took turns in the slaughter.
My friends, it is surprising how hard one needs to swing in order to completely sever the neck of a turkey with one swing of an ax. It is amazing how easily those feathers come off in hot water. And it was a real wonder how bad the inside smells, even when you’ve spilled no poop. But, between the girl named Yoder, who grew up on a chicken farm, and some other volunteers well versed in the art of cooking, we turned those birds into real, live, food.
Saturday night turned into a feast like none other. All 15 of us sat around a table, we made toasts, told stories, and ate lots of food. We had stuffing and mashed potatoes with lots of gravy. We had salads and soups, and topped everything off with apple and pumpkin pie. Needless to say, by the end of the weekend, my hunger had abated.
But that wasn’t all. When I got home on Sunday, I found my host-mom. “Carl,” she said, “I’m sorry we’ve been gone for so long. We were in Bishkek. We bought an apartment.” It is a small place, but I can’t help feel like my years of rent helped foot the bill. It is an investment. “the girls will stay there when they go to college,” she said, and I beamed.
Everyone got their dues, it seems, and everyone made it home happy. Wishing a happy Thanksgiving, to all of you, and all of yours.
Kyrgy Carl, Coming into His Own
Last week found ol’ Kyrgy Carl jaunting around Bishkek and the serene Lake Issyk Kul. See, with my natural dyes course all but wrapped up, I took the opportunity to indulge myself.
Bishkek, folks, is a city in its own right. There are little cafes and shady parks. Kyrgyz people sit beneath trees and on street corners selling hard yogurt balls, sunflower seeds, and other various sundries. The center of town holds a strikingly symmetrical array of imposing state buildings and fountains. Furthermore, the Internet can be so free flowing, that I used and abused that thing we all know as Facebook!
These days, folks, I’ve got friends in Bishkek. Since the beginning, the place I so liberally called a “metropolis” just keeps getting smaller.
From Bishkek, I made my way back to the Lake – it is, after all, apple season.
For those of you who remember my old teacher, Tamerlane, the Hero King, he was, just as last year, picking apples when I arrive. This time, however, helping him was my goal. We spent the better part of a morning together, just picking apples. We spoke mostly in Kyrgyz, a vast change from when I first met him. We told stories, and just enjoyed each other’s company. The serenity was profound.
If there are many things prettier than a hand on a red apple, framed only by a cloudless sky, I’d be hard-pressed to name them.
Later that day, some other volunteers showed up form the nearby city of Karakol, a real urban center. They came to help, but also to play. They wanted to slaughter a sheep. During our first day, we cleaned off some mighty apple trees in record time. The next morning, we headed to the animal bazaar.
Once there, in a funny way, I got to demonstrate some chops I hardly knew I had. I talked knowledgeably about sheep prices, and then helped tie up the animal’s legs. “Azamat!” said my teacher.
When we got home, I held the animal down while he slit its throat. Some of the other visiting volunteers were shocked by the site, for they’d yet to see a slaughter. It just shows to go you: there are as many volunteer experiences as there are volunteers. Next, when it came to butchering the animal, my teacher just said, “please, guys, go inside, and have some tea. I only need one helper, and for that, I’ll take the Naryn boy.” That Naryn boy, was of course, your Kyrgy Carl.
Really, though, it was a learning opportunity. Usually, folks, while I get to watch, nobody really wants me to help cut up the animal; there are inevitably people better qualified, even as helpers. Here though, I helped with the skinning, I knew when to snap the knees, and where to grab at the tendons. The organs didn’t scare me, and I knew they wouldn’t just break. When it came to torching the head and legs free of their fir, I was an absolute pro.
It seems, folks, Kyrgy Carl is living up to his name. He couldn’t have done it alone, though. And for that, god bless the lot of you, as you’ve been here, all the way, right by my side.
So They Call You Kyrgyz Carl
I got an interesting phone call last week. It was from my superiors in Bishkek. They had seen the Trees for the Kyrgyz success video, and wanted to show it at their next big event. The event in questions? The Swearing In ceremony for the new class of volunteers.
And so this is how I was introduced to the new volunteers, introduced not by my Christian moniker, but instead as I am apparently known but the staffers in our main office, as Kyrgyz Carl. The reaction, among my compatriots, was positive, though did inspire some gentle ribbing.
“We should drop him off in the mountains somewhere, get him lost,” one of the new volunteers told a friend of mine, “that way we’ll lower expectations on ourselves.”
To which my friend so appropriately replied, “you don’t know how much he’d like that.”
And so it goes. We were the new guys, learning the ways of the experienced crew. Now, it is us who are showing people around, telling them what we know. And talking to them, folks, is different than writing letters home. For instance, during our first meet-and-greet, my friend said, “well, I don’t think anyone has been really hassled out here.”
“Well,” I countered, “there was that time I got into a taxi with a drunk guy, who sped down towards the bazaar, and chased me from his car swinging his fists.”
Whereas here, folks, I focus on the wonderful moments, the ones that extend to the majority of my service, I felt obliged to warn these guys. They know how wonderful it is here, how safe it is. I told them about the time a very, VERY drunk old man grabbed my bag strap, perhaps trying to greet me, as he was to drunk to speak. We pushed him off gently, though, because we didn’t want to knock him over.
And I got to thinking, in those moments of story-telling reflection, how different one audience is from the other. Folks, I give you my world here, in positives and negatives, in the proportions that I see it.
But so is life. And this new crew is throwing me, and many of us in the old guard reflecting. Before we were comfortable with our language abilities, before we had friends in the community. Before we were clear on our jobs and were close to our coworkers.
And in that reflection, it has grown clear how that comfort snuck up on us. Little by little, we grew with this place, and are still growing. And as much as I want to show and teach the new volunteers, I know how much I needed to learn it all myself. This part of Peace Corps, the transition to the new generation of volunteers, is a very real part. The city is now populated with so many more of us, with new personalities and goals. It is an exciting time. More so that those sneaky little feelings would have led me to believe.
The Vast and Exciting Land of Kyrgyzstan
Kyrgyzstan is a vast, exciting and varied country. I spend the vast majority of my time home, in Sunny Naryn, but I’ve just returned for a veritable extravaganza of domestic traveling.
From my jaunt with Tamerlane in Darkon, I headed east to the center of University and tourist life in the northern country. Set on the idyllic shores of Lake Issyk Kul, Karakol surely ranks among the most wonderful towns in the country. It sports 75,000 people, and gaggle of universities. Many Russians (complete with their money and western mentality) never left the place, and that gives it an air much different than Naryn. This air, among other things, includes night clubs, peanut butter and applesauce.
From there it was to the Wisconsin Dells of Kyrgyzstan, Cholpon-Ata. This tourist town on the north shore of the lake, sports high quality hotels, that, in the winter, go for low low prices. This combination led our PDM to offer a strange bit of high luxury. My room, for example, included a Jacuzzi.
After three solid days of socializing, networking and, in tandem with our local counterparts, learning how to design and manage community based projects, on the boot heels of a giant celebratory bon-fire, the vacation was over. While many headed right home, I made my way back to the metropolis of Bishkek.
I was a man on a mission. I had handicraft samples to buy, high INGO officials to meet, and big groups of volunteers to connect with. I started my trip meeting with a supply chain analyst who works at the UNDP. We finished a proposal together for a central web-based marketplace for Kyrgyz cooperatives country wide, and then rolled on over to the Asian Development Bank to present it. Could this be the project that defines my service here? Only time will tell.
From there it was to an underground bar with no name that we PCVs refer to collectively as The Dungeon. It’s a smoky meeting ground for Bohemian youth of all nations, and it brews its own beer. Along with other escapees from the PDM conference, that weekend also included a gathering of PCVs charged with monitoring our safety, namely, those who hold the title, “warden.” With this collection of great minds from all over the country, there was never a dull moment.
And as with all trips away from home, I’m lucky if I can spend some time with friends I’ve made who don’t travel much. This time, it was my homestay family from Ivanovka. I spent just one night with them. They understand me. My 13 year old sister said, “boy, your language hasn’t gotten much better.” And she was right. We spent the rest of our time playing, or talking, explaining things slowly, helping me learn.
I then left in a cheap van through a worsening blizzard surrounded by my best friends in country. When I arrived at home, my family noted my cough and cold and commanded, “eat this lump of garlic. Drink some boiled milk with honey, and then go to bed. We’ll get you healthy in no time.”
Life. Way to go.
Originally Written January 18th, 2010
IST (and Other Three Letter Acronyms (TLAs) for Your Enjoyment)
Maybe it was the military that went acronym crazy first, then our government, in its infinite wisdom, followed suit, maybe it was the other way around. Either way, Peace Corps (PC), is now, and perhaps has always been, afflicted with the same disease.
I, a Peace Corps Volunteer, am a PCV. I am in the Sustainable and Organizational Community Development (SOCD) program, and most of my friends Teach English as a Foreign Language (TEFL). During Pre-Service Training (PST), the PCVs who had volunteered to Train us were PCVTs and the Host Country Nationals (HCNs) who Facilitated our Language and Cultural learnings were LCFs. I wrote to you all some time ago from my program (SOCD)’s Advanced Community Development Conference (SOCD ACDC) and in a couple of months will write again from the Project Design and Management (PDM) conference. But today, I’m writing about the recently completed Inter-Service Training (IST).
We volunteers get few opportunities to visit the booming metropolis of Bishkek, and fewer yet to all congregate together, so this is a highly anticipated event. A general phenomenon with Peace Corps worldwide is that, by IST, male volunteers lose ten pounds, and girls pick them up. But as we met together, in the glory of the Issyk Kul hotel, dripping with its Soviet grandeur, these physical changes (if they had occurred at all) couldn’t be farther from our minds.
Instead, we gathered and basked in the pleasure community, the comfort of shared experience. None of us came to Kyrgyzstan knowing what we’d find, and as different as our experiences have been, what we have all shared is very real, and the resulting sense of camaraderie profound.
At IST we had daily trainings on language, safety and security, health awareness, and for my SOCD group, organizational planning. During these sessions, we shared all that we had been learning these past few months. But it was after the mandatory gatherings that the real development happened.
We went out to eat together at fancy Bishkek restaurants, we saw a culturally invigorated performance by a troupe named after the first sound in Kyrgyz music, Kambarkan. We shared pictures and we gathered in each other’s hotel rooms, like dorm rooms in college. The urge to be with each other was tangible, tantalizing. Working and living abroad, I believe, can be a lonely experience. But with the PCV bond, no one needed to be alone.
On the last night of the training, we had a talent show. No one knew it would be happening before we got there, yet two guys had come equipped with guitars. We had singers, joke tellers and improvisers. We played there, on the top floor of that Soviet hotel, just enjoying each other’s company. Everyone had a skill, and everyone was happy to see it. It was, in no way, performance for the performer. It was people wanting to be together, and finding every reason to do so. Somehow, I imagined, if JFK, the father of the Peace Corps, could have seen us engaging, so happily, so simply, in that moment, he’d have given us a wink, and just been proud.
A Meat and Greet Kind of Week
This week, freshly in from America, our Acting Country Director Ben Chapman asked simply, “which volunteers see the fewest visitors?” And with this knowledge as a blazing shield, and his former PC Kazakhstan service as his sword of comfort, Mr. Chapman followed our Safety and Security officer on her oblast by oblast tour penetrating deep into the heart of Sunny Naryn.
Ben was a volunteer’s volunteer. He honed his Russian ten years ago in Kazakhstan, and doesn’t seem like he’s lost it. Our Safety and Security officer had arranged meetings for us with the Mayor, Governor, and local police. During each of these meetings, he charmed folks with his effortless language, and tickled the cops enough that they insisted on a big group photo when it was all said and done.
At the end of his time here, he took us all out to dinner, sat with us, talked with us, and finally observed, “they say Naryn is the harshest part of Kyrgyzstan to serve. But you all clearly are in great spirits.” (An understatement.) “What I have noticed, working with PC as long as I have, is that volunteers who have it easy are often the least satisfied with their service. But the ones who are really working to stick it out, they are the ones who come home the happiest.”
Gosh, I sure wish all of you could have meetings like this with your bosses.
I do wonder though, when will all this tough talk about Naryn materialize? Maybe when the temperature drops to -40º this winter?
But in the meantime folks, I’ve had not one, but three “guesting” experiences this week.
Guesting, you see, is something a little more than coming over to visit. I’ve gone into grand detail up on the website about one encounter, and I’ll give you a brief taste here:
The tables are always set to look like still life paintings from Renaissance art. Dramatic fruit displays in cut glass bowls, salads, breads and syrupy jams. Generally, the events go late into the night.
During the first one this week, we had Kyrgyz friends in from Naryn and Moscow. They arrived around eight, and my dad wasn’t to be home until midnight. So (for the first time) I was invited to the table, and given the job of pressing the booze. So, between accusations that I was a spy and questions about how much things cost in America, I refilled shot glasses and insisted on toasts.
The second was a birthday party for a neighbor. These folks had hosted a volunteer before, and conversation was a little more laid back: my work here, Kyrgyz vs. American culture, silly stories. When toast time came here, I recited a long, poetic series of blessings my tutor had me memorize. These folks were very impressed, quietly repeating some of the prettier lines to themselves. This in stark contrast from the first time my family heard this, when all they replied was, “Gee! How much do you drink?”
The final visit this week involved my Dad dropping off a car he bought at his family’s house in the village. This event, exciting enough for a letter on its own, culminated as I was chowing down on tomatoes, while my Kyrgyz compatriots demolished minced meat, carrots and onions all jellied together with ground horse hooves and cow skulls. How’s that for a difference in palate?
Anyway, it’s been a long letter folks, I hope I haven’t bored you.
Originally Written September 14th, 2009
Relaxed Day
Posted by KyrgyCarl in Bonus Content! on August 30, 2009
So, it’s been a quiet week here in Sunny Naryn. The summer feels like it is finally here – that means it feels to warm to wear pants. Without one clear vignette to give you all about the recent times of my life here, I’m going to present, instead, a casual synopsis of an uneventful week, a day-in-the-life, if you will.
Canvassing at work has long been finished, so I spend my days strolling in around 9:30 or ten, after conversing pleasantly with my family over breakfast in the morning. Sometimes when I get to work there are people there, sometimes the door is locked. I’ve yet to discover a rhythm as to when people arrive, so if no one is around, I’ll take a seat outside and do flashcards, or mosey over to the UNDP office, or often to the University, and visit my friends who work there. Needless to say, stress levels are decidedly low.
Last week a fellow SOCD volunteer, and good friend of mine from distant Talas City came to visit. His project out there is the same as mine, the Clean City Campaign, so I introduced him to people, and showed him our progress. We swapped stories and joked about how much of the project we’d understand if we all spoke the same language.
The day after he was satisfied with his time here, the two of us went to nearby Kochkor to visit another volunteer who works at Golden Hands, or the famed Altyn Kol cooperative. They sell high-quality felt carpets called shyrdocks to unsuspecting tourists. Their network of local artisans keeps them famed in the carpet world, and their organizational skills keep them busy with orders from abroad. So the three of us then did much of what my Talas Friend did the day before – swapped stories, shared, enjoyed each other’s company. Not a tough moment between us.
Here in Naryn, I’ve just come from a large series of meetings between some large local NGOs, notably the Kyrgyzstan – New Zealand Rural Trust. This NZ group featured a 40 year veteran of development work, clearly as interested in village level development as he was in developing the NGO’s he contracted with themselves.
This meeting showed me first hand what development work is really like, on the ground. It, more than anything, impressed upon me how lucky I am to be here, to be presented with opportunities to learn these skills. How not six months ago no proper development agency would have wanted anything to do with little tender-footed me. But today, I’m learning directly from UNDP specialists and seasoned development consultants, the folks whose lives are the light at the end of my tunnel.
Now today, I’m resting in my room, listening Cadillac by Keller Williams . I’m going to visit some neighbors shortly. I’m going to have to take my shoes off when I get to their house, but won’t want to walk around barefoot. The convenient solution? Socks with Sandals. All the way.
By the way folks, Internet Master Matt has KyrgyCarl.com up and running again. All the old letters are there. Enjoy!
Originally Written August 29th, 2009
The Hot Lake of Dreams
So, its been a little while since my last letter, (for those of you who’ve been counting.) The limiting factor here in Naryn City is Internet access. Internet here is served from the second floor of a dark, Soviet building. As capitalism hits this country, creative reuse of structures is common. There is a boxing gym in the bottom of the Mayor’s building and the blocky 3 storey structure with its window-less lobby that houses the internet, also sports a barber shop, bakery, and carnival colored phone booths.
But these past weeks have been exciting to say the least, and have showed me that I really do live here, and in these 4 short months, have, in fact, created a real life for myself.
I headed out last week to the mountain gem of this entire region, Lake Issik-Kul. Kyrgyz songs and proverbs reference this place with reverence. Being there, the cool, humid air, fruit trees and tropical feel leant itself more to lowland, coastal Guatemala than highland, landlocked Central Asia.
The lake itself, called “Hot Lake” in Kyrgyz, is named such because its thin salinity keeps it from freezing in the winter. It feels as big as any Great Lake, but instead of seeing the smokestacks of Gary from the beach on a clear day, to see land you have to gaze high above the horizon to see only snow-capped, mountain peaks.
I was working in the city of Barskon on a Habitat for Humanity project. By day, 10 other Peace Corps volunteers and I would make layer cakes of stucco powder for even mixing, while our donations paid for skilled laborers to actually apply the stuff. After work we’d go to the beach, play charades, and have dinner with the family we were building the house for.
Arguably, one of the peak moments was trading insults with my friend from college, Jared. He learned Russian, and I Kyrgyz, and our hosts are naturally fluent in both. So Jared would say, in Russian, “I went to college with Carl. He never bathed, and the girls didn’t like him.” “True,” I’d say in Kyrgyz, “but Jared can’t read, and he’d always asked me what the teachers were talking about in class.” We would use just enough pantomime so that we’d catch each other’s retorts, but only the locals could really understand it all. It was like our own little tri-lingual comedy routine.
After that week of hard labor in Barskon, another friend and I rolled an hour down the coast to spend the weekend with our Kyrgyz language teacher from training, Timerlan the Hero-King. As his wife set pads out for us to sleep on in the guestroom, and he gave us dinner in his backyard yurt, I realized that I have vacations to take here, and friends to visit in this strange country. Peace Corps Kyrgyzstan has now, officially surpassed the study abroad experience; it is not travel or tourism, it is not even just part of my life; right now, it is my life. Who’d ever have thought.
That’s all for now folks. Turns out, there’s no post cards for sale here in my sleepy mountain town, but I’ve got a batch on its way up from the more touristed south. Do keep in touch.
Originally Written July 23rd, 2009
Summer Camps for the Children of Tomorrow
So, summertime in Peace Corps Kyrgyzstan is camp time. Country wide, oblast by oblast, volunteers host a variety of summer-camps for local Kyrgyz school children. They come in different lengths and with different themes.
Currently, we have a “leadership” camp running here in Naryn city, hosted out of a local high school, where 40 kids come from 9 to 5, and do activities ranging from anti-smoking sessions, to dancing in the afternoon, to “English for Fun!” In the mornings, I lead a session on “critical thinking.”
What this means, really, is that for half an hour I encourage the kids to be creative, where they are given problems and every answer is correct. One day, the scenario was, “you have two stools, but three people, what do you do?” One group replied, “we’ll sell the two, and buy three cheaper stools,” another replied, “we’ll play Musical Chairs,” and another, “we’ll all just dance.”
For another situation, I asked the students to explain rather mundane occurrences, like, “the sun is not shining,” in both a realistic, and fantastical way. For this example, one group first replied, “because it is cloudy,” and second, “because the sun is offended.” Needless to say, this has been one of the high points of my work out here.
But along with our 40 students, we also have 10 some odd extra volunteers in town helping us run the camp. For the old volunteers, this means seeing those people who winter makes it so difficult to see, and for us new volunteers, this means meeting the old guard, and seeing how work gets done.
It also means after camp, we all get to hang out together. 10 twenty-somethings in an apartment together, cooking, playing cards, just generally being happy. It all reminds me that I joined the Peace Corps not only to do good work, but also because they work hard to build community among us, the volunteers, and remind you that as hard as it is to live so far away, and for so long, you always have good, familiar people close at hand.
So at 10:30 this evening, after stuffed peppers, whipped-cream pie and more Euchre than a person should play, I came home, ready for anything, and that’s just what I found.
Standing before the single hanging bare-bulb in the garage were three generations of thick Kyrgyz men, staring down the gutted carcasses of 7 cows and horses. The oldest of them was hacking apart a spine with an axe while the youngest was separating the rib cages, and throwing them onto a pile, with one of the hides protecting them from the concrete floor. Some of the carcasses, legs cut off at the knees, we just hanging on hooks on a rack. Like a scene from a horror film, whoever would have imagined that a boy from Chicago, hog butcher to the world, could be so fascinated by a room full of slaughtered cows.
Originally Written July 2nd, 2009



